There is a saying in South Korea that the strength of its people comes from rice, emphasizing how integral rice is to South Korean culture. It’s no wonder that the nation is often referred to as the “people of rice.” One of the charms of rice is its subtle flavor, which makes it a versatile companion to any dish. Only rice can harmonize so broadly without overwhelming the flavors of accompanying foods.
One dish that showcases the allure of rice is sushi. The taste of sushi varies widely depending on the toppings (neta), but it is the rice that forms the core of its flavor.
A Japanese sushi master who has fallen in love with this charm of rice is Nakamura Koji, famous for Sushi Sora and Sushi Koji. He also believes that rice is the heart of sushi. The seasoned rice (shari), made with high-quality rice and delicious vinegar, is an indispensable part of his sushi philosophy.
Koji’s sensitivity to rice is extraordinarily acute due to the amount of time he has devoted to perfecting it. He claims that even rice of the same variety can taste different depending on the chef. Consequently, one of the key aspects he emphasizes to his team is the art of making ‘good rice’ for the sushi.
The shari (Sushi rice) crafted by Chef Koji, with its stringent standards, is exceptional. First, rice selected from Jinju in South Korea’s Gyeongsangnam-do is mixed with a blend of three types of vinegar, including red vinegar. The rice is then placed in a container and brought to the ideal temperature for sushi.
The first impression of Chef Koji’s shari is moderately acidic and salty. He uses rice grains that are smaller and firmer than typical white rice, allowing each grain to stand out. The more you chew, the more the sourness of the vinegar rises, but it is balanced by the sweetness of the rice. After swallowing, a harmonious blend of sour, sweet, and salty flavors lingers, leaving a subtle floral fragrance in the mouth.
Chef Koji attributes the excellence of his shari to three elements: good rice, vinegar, and dedication. While excellent ingredients are necessary to create delicious food, he believes that without dedication, it is challenging to bring out the full flavor.
His philosophy of dedication extends to his restaurant management. He believes that dedication is crucial for a successful establishment. While culinary skills can be learned by anyone, a genuine heart for the customers is irreplaceable.
―Please introduce yourself briefly.
“I am Nakamura Koji, and I run Sushi Koji and Sushi Sora. I have been working with sushi for 23 years now. I started in Shibuya, Tokyo, and came to South Korea in 2011.”
―Tell us about the restaurants you run.
“Sushi Sora, which sushi beginners can enjoy, is currently operating in eight locations nationwide, including Cheongdam, Daechi, Gwanghwamun, and Mapo. We no longer operate Sushi Kaisei, And I am also running Sushi Koji, a restaurant that carries my name.”
―What is your philosophy in running these restaurants?
“Of course, making delicious sushi is important, but service is also crucial. All the famous sushi chefs in Japan have excelled in customer service. Therefore, when hiring staff, the most important quality I look for is character and personality. Anyone can learn to make delicious sushi with practice. However, the ‘consideration’ that ensures customers have a comfortable dining experience and want to return cannot be created through practice alone.”
―What do you consider important when making sushi?
“It is not an exaggeration to say that the taste of sushi is determined by the taste of the rice. And to make delicious rice, you need to use good-quality rice. Expensive and rare ingredients like tuna and sea urchin can be obtained by spending a lot of money. However, to make delicious rice, you have to go through hundreds or thousands of trials and errors. It also requires constant effort to maintain that taste.”
―What makes ‘rice’ special to you?
“You might not believe it, but even if you cook the same rice, the taste can differ depending on who makes it. Additionally, during the process of mixing the vinegar with the rice, the flavor can vary depending on who is mixing it. I consider rice to be ideal when it is moist and retains its texture, yet dissolves smoothly in the mouth. No matter how precious the fish is, the sushi won’t be delicious if the rice doesn’t taste good.”
―What kind of rice do you use to make ideal ‘shari’?
“I use rice from Jinju in Gyeongsangnam-do, South Korea. The grains are smaller than typical rice, giving it a good texture. I tasted all the delicious rice across South Korea to find this rice.”
―Is there a way to eat sushi more deliciously?
“I recommend eating it within 15 seconds of it being served. The reason is that the taste of sushi changes with the temperature of the rice. Therefore, at Sushi Koji, we serve each piece of sushi to each customer individually, even if it takes more time. This is because the rice temperature can cool down if served all at once.”
―What’s your favorite ingredient for sushi?
“Herring. Herring is a very interesting fish. Most people think that the best season for herring is winter when they are filled with roe. However, herring is most delicious in summer, especially during the rainy season. Although they don’t have roe then, their flesh is the fattiest. Herring is also a fish that reflects the chef’s ‘effort.’ The more meticulously a chef prepares it, the better it tastes. Top-quality herring, treated with salt and vinegar to remove the fishy smell and carefully deboned, is, in my opinion, more delicious than any other oily fish.”
―You are known as the ‘Baek Jong-won of sushi’ for popularizing omakase (Japanese dining style where the chef selects the dishes for the customer) with Sushi Sora in South Korea.
“That title is too generous for me. I take it as a reminder to work harder. It’s an exaggeration to say that I created the omakase trend in S. Korea. When I opened my restaurants in S. Korea, it just so happened that there was growing interest in omakase. I believe managing the restaurants differently according to price levels worked well.”
―I understand you are very interested in S. Korean ingredients.
“Yes, since I need to source fresh ingredients, I focus on local specialties in South Korea. Some ingredients from South Korea are really high quality. Wasabi from Cheorwon and sea urchin (uni) farmed in Goheung are examples. The sea urchin, in particular, is so delicious that it is comparable to the top-grade uni from Hokkaido, Japan. We plan to start serving related sushi in our restaurants this winter. You can look forward to it.”
―Any final words you would like to share?
“When looking at the price of omakase, it may seem expensive. However, once you visit, you can feel its value exceeds the cost. The advantage of omakase is that it allows you to taste a variety of rare ingredients at once. I will prepare everything with utmost dedication. I hope you enjoy your meal and feel inclined to visit again. I will do my best to remain as ‘good connections’ rather than just a chef and customer.”
