Traveling to foreign lands can be an exciting and exhilarating experience for all of us. However, what truly makes these moments unforgettable is the pleasure of indulging in exceptional cuisine. Seoul, the capital city of South Korea, is now gaining recognition as one of the world’s premier travel destinations, beyond Asia. K-food, which stands for Korean cuisine, is also rising in popularity, aligned with K-pop and K-culture. ChosunBiz aims to introduce Michelin-starred restaurants in Seoul that offer a modern twist on traditional Korean cuisine. [Editor’s note]
Life is often compared to a novel, with its events woven through emotions like joy, anger, sorrow, and happiness, flowing much like a work of art. The stages of life—childhood, youth, adulthood, and old age—also mirror the structure of a story. While everyone plays a different lead, the common thread is that we each craft our own unique narrative.
One chef in Korea views life through this same lens: Michelin-starred chef Eom Tae-chul. His restaurant, Soseoul Hannam, reflects this philosophy, but in his story, the main character is Korean cuisine, also known as ‘Hansik’.
Interestingly, Korean food didn’t feature prominently in the early chapters of Chef Eom’s journey. His passion for Hansik grew as he gained experience in the U.S. and Spain. When he first began his culinary career, he wasn’t set on pursuing Korean cuisine. Instead, he was filled with uncertainty about which culinary path to take. It wasn’t until after studying abroad and working at a fine-dining restaurant that he discovered his calling: Hansik.
Eom’s vision for Hansik is as clear as his purpose. From the presentation to the ingredients and flavors, every element is designed to express the essence of Korean cuisine. He is constantly exploring the fundamentals of what makes Hansik truly Korean.
At Soseoul Hannam, the dishes go beyond mere ingredient combinations—they embody traditional Korean food culture, including the way food is enjoyed. The wrapping of ingredients in leafy greens (ssam), the fine rice cakes (tteok), and the various side dishes served with rice (banchan)—all these elements come together to present the full essence of Hansik.
Last summer’s menu reflected his commitment to seasonal ingredients. With dishes featuring yellowtail, zucchini, peaches, and chotang corn, he crafted new stories through his cuisine. From the amuse-bouche, guests could immediately experience authentic Korean flavors, such as the three types of ssambap (wrapped rice) made with kelp, cabbage, and gomchwi, as well as the baramtteok (puffy rice cake).
The kelp ssambap brings the rich aroma of aged kelp, combined with the fragrance of shrimp, creating an umami-laden bite. The baramtteok offers a wave of intense sea urchin flavor, enhanced by crispy gim (seaweed). The cabbage ssambap embodies the restrained flavors of Korea, with rice, cabbage, and a simple anchovy-pepper sauce blending harmoniously.
The yellowtail jeon (pan-fried dishes) and pork rib tteokgalbi (grilled ribs) were modern reinterpretations of traditional Korean celebratory dishes. The yellowtail, nestled in a pumpkin blossom, offered a savory and fragrant bite, elevated by a shrimp sauce. The pork rib tteokgalbi, with abalone added, boasted a chewy texture, while the rice, served with bracken and asparagus, added a fresh and light finish. Every dish balanced its flavors, staying true to the core of Hansik.
As autumn blooms, Soseoul Hannam brings the rich flavors of the season into the spotlight. Fully ripened sweet potatoes and taro take center stage. The meal begins with a sweet potato porridge made with glutinous rice, milk, and figs, unexpectedly paired with salty caviar for a delightful contrast. The restaurant continues to showcase autumn’s abundance with dishes featuring elephant clams, Siberian ginseng, and plump blue crabs, delivering the deep, layered flavors of this vibrant season.
In fact, Eom’s journey is only just beginning. The vast world of Hansik offers him countless stories yet to be told. Even if he remains in the background, his greatest wish is for Korean cuisine to take center stage and shine even brighter in the story he is crafting.
―Please introduce yourself briefly.
“I’m Eom Tae-chul, the chef of Soseoul Hannam. I’ve been interested in cooking since middle school, and naturally, I decided to pursue it as my career. Creating something through cooking has always given me a sense of joy. Working at excellent restaurants like ‘POOM Seoul’ and ‘Mosu’ further fueled my passion for Korean cuisine.”
―Can you tell us about Soseoul Hannam?
“Soseoul Hannam opened its doors in Oct. 2018. A lot of people ask about the meaning behind the name. Soseoul Hannam carries various meanings. While ‘soseol’ can mean ‘novel’ in Korean, it also has a meaning in Chinese characters that refers to being ‘simple and clean,’ which reflects the aesthetic of restraint in Hansik. Additionally, the English pronunciation ‘Soseoul’ can be heard as ‘So Seoul,’ symbolizing my desire to showcase modern Korean cuisine, with Seoul as its center.”
―How would you describe the Hansik at Soseoul Hannam?
“I want the experience to be undeniably Korean for anyone who tries it. The food must not only taste good but also embody the true essence of Hansik. That’s why I put a lot of thought into the presentation. While I strive to use 100% Korean ingredients, I also make sure to include elements unique to Hansik, like ssam and bibimbap. Throughout the course, I also serve small bites like tteok. My goal is not just to present dishes like galbi or bibimbap, but to incorporate elements of Korean culture.
However, I don’t want to force the concept of Hansik. It’s important to emphasize only the necessary parts to express Hansik. After all, one of the key principles of Korean cuisine is about finding balance through restraint.”
―In your opinion, what best represents the flavor of Korea?
“It’s hard to pick just one. There are many flavors that represent the essence of Korea. When we think of Japanese cuisine, many people think of the flavor derived from katsuobushi (bonito flakes). In Hansik, I believe namul (seasoned vegetables) plays a similar role. Especially namul mixed with sesame oil, which is a great representation of Korean cuisine.
In fact, sesame oil itself is a key ingredient—it’s hard to find a dish where it isn’t used, whether in stews, sauces, or other dishes. Clear broths like gomtang and seolleongtang also convey the clean and subtle flavors of Korea.”
―You’ve mentioned wanting to create pure Hansik. What does that mean to you?
“It’s difficult to define Hansik with precision, and I’m cautious about doing so. It’s not something that can be summed up in a sentence or a word. However, we instinctively know when something is Hansik as soon as we taste it. I want to express that ambiguous yet distinct boundary.
In terms of both taste and presentation, I want everything to reflect Korean cuisine. Sometimes friends ask why I confine myself to certain boundaries or choose to take the more challenging path. I know that if I incorporated more diverse ingredients better suited to Western cuisine, I could create even more delicious dishes. But my conviction is that as a Korean, I want to make Korean food in a truly Korean way.”
―How does Soseoul Hannam reinterpret Hansik?
“I take inspiration from traditional Korean cuisine, especially the cultural elements. One thing that’s always central to Korean food is rice—it’s a key part of every meal, whether it’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner. If I take rice as an example, I might try pounding it into a paste to make tteok, grinding it into powder to steam, or simply cooking it in various ways, always experimenting with new approaches.”
―What do you consider to be the signature dish at Soseoul Hannam?
“I would say our ssam (wrapped rice) dishes. Last summer, we featured many ssam dishes using ingredients like kelp, gomchwi (a type of Korean herb), and cabbage. Ssam comes in various forms. We even created a ssam dish using a gujeolpan (nine different foods assorted on a wooden plate).
For the summer version, we mixed chicken broth with flour to make pancakes, and then filled them with chicken breast, abalone, and other nourishing ingredients. Also, another popular dish, dumplings are also quite similar to ssam in a way.”
―Is there a new aspect of Korean cuisine you want to develop?
“I really want to make amazing cooked rice. I feel like rice hasn’t always been given the respect it deserves. We all know that freshly cooked rice made from good-quality grains is delicious on its own. Rice is such an essential part of Korean cuisine. It should actually be the main star in what we call a ‘bapjip’ (a restaurant centered around rice). But it often gets overshadowed by stews or side dishes, which I find unfortunate. Serving rice that’s been sitting in a rice cooker until it’s ordered takes away from its true flavor. I have other ideas I’m passionate about too, like street food and full traditional Korean meal settings.”
―How do you want to be remembered as a chef?
“I want to be remembered as a chef who truly cares about cooking. It would be great if I could contribute, even in a small way, to the growth of Korean cuisine. Even as I get older, I hope to continue cooking in the kitchen. I want to always be able to make the dishes I’m passionate about. I’ll also keep working to ensure that Soseoul Hannam is a place where customers feel satisfied from the moment they step in until the moment they leave.”
