Italian luxury brand Fendi has faced accusations of cultural appropriation from Chinese consumers over a handbag created in collaboration with a Korean master artisan of “maedeup,” or traditional knots.
The Global Times, the English-language edition of China’s state-run newspaper, reported on Feb. 27 that “Fendi is caught up in a dispute after being accused of erroneously describing the Chinese cultural roots of one of its recent products' designs as Korean,” and that the company is investigating the matter following a series of related complaints.
The bag in question, unveiled in November of last year, is a collaboration between Fendi and Kim Eun-young, an honorary maedeup master designated as Seoul’s Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 13.
Through its Hand in Hand campaign, Fendi created special editions of its signature Baguette Bag, crafted by artisans from around the world, including Korea, Italy, Australia, and Scotland. This collection also featured a collaboration with Chinese embroidery artisans.
According to the report, Fendi promoted the bag on Instagram, saying, “In Korea, Fendi collaborated with local artisan Kim Eun-young, who has specialized in Maedeup—a traditional craft of tying and fastening a single long string to form multiple ornamental knot shapes—since 1965.”
The Global Times claimed that the handbag’s woven design appeared to resemble the Chinese Knot, a centuries-old decorative craft. It also argued that Fendi’s promotional materials credited the design to Korean craftsmanship, implying ties to Korean cultural heritage.
Fendi’s post was shared on Chinese social media, leading numerous online users to raise suspicions of cultural appropriation. On that day, the topic was trending on Sina Weibo.
Related posts featuring the collaboration with Kim Eun-young were removed from Fendi’s official website and Instagram on Feb. 27.
Born in 1942, Kim Eun-young studied interior design at Ewha Womans University. After discovering an article about knotting, she pursued the craft and was designated as the honorary Knot Master of Seoul’s Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 13 in 1996. With nearly 60 years of experience, she has held exhibitions at prestigious museums in cities such as Rome, Paris, and Kyoto.
Kim drew inspiration for the Hand in Hand Baguette bag from the sunset she observed at Munsuam Temple in Goseong, South Gyeongsang Province, as clouds veiled the sky. The colors of the sunset were captured to evoke a lingering emotion, incorporating traditional knots that were once used to embellish the royal attire of the Joseon Dynasty.
