This article contains spoilers for the Netflix show “Culinary Class Wars.”
Edward Lee, a 52-year-old Korean-American chef, gained significant attention on the popular Netflix original reality show “Culinary Class Wars.” Despite finishing as the runner-up, he garnered nearly as much acclaim for his impressive performance as the first-place winner. Along with his culinary skills, Lee’s humility throughout the competition stood out. In a survival competition where a single elimination could end his journey, he boldly showcased a full-course meal, preparing six distinct dishes from soup to crème brûlée all made with tofu. His metaphor, “Old-fashioned Kyun likes makgeolli, while Edward Lee drinks whiskey,” resonated with many, and his heartfelt reading of a crumpled handwritten letter in Korean became a topic of discussion. With over 30 years of culinary experience, Lee is already a well-known chef in the U.S., having appeared on several television shows.
Lee was busy at Union Market, a new hot spot in Washington, D.C on Oct. 11, preparing for the opening of SHIA, a nonprofit Korean restaurant with a goal of zero plastic. Accompanied by his six-year-old dog, Jasper, he expressed, “I showed people what kind of food I want to make, and I’ve resolved my identity crisis between ‘Edward’ and ‘Kyun.’ I didn’t win, but I feel like I achieved my goal.” The Chosun Ilbo interviewed Lee just two days after he returned from South Korea.
Do you notice a difference in your popularity since “Culinary Class Wars”?
“I was on the way from Incheon International Airport to my hotel. That night, due to the fireworks festival in Yeouido, traffic was heavy, and I had to walk two blocks from the car. People started surrounding me and taking photos. I had visited Korea many times before, but no one recognized me then. It was a shocking experience, and I realized a lot has changed.”
What made you decide to appear on the show?
“In my early career, I primarily focused on American, French, and Italian cuisines. As I got older, I started to think more about Korean food and wanted to create something new [about Korean food] with everything I had learned. I saw this as a great opportunity to show what I want to do with Korean cuisine. The fact that it was Netflix’s first series targeted at a global audience also attracted me. If they had asked me to be a judge, I probably wouldn’t have done it.”
How were the main judges, Paik Jong-won and Anh Sung-jae?
“Both judges had different specialties and approached things with distinct perspectives and attitudes. But they maintained consistency throughout the program, which I found fair. I’ve never visited any of Paik’s many franchise restaurants, but I’ve tried convenience store foods with his face on it late at night.”
Who impressed you the most among the contestants?
“You don’t have to go to a fine dining restaurant to taste good food. The most impressive contestant was chef Kim Mi-ryeong, nicknamed ‘Untie Omakase #1.’ While everyone else was preparing Italian and fusion dishes, she made Korean food that was simple yet full of wisdom and technique. I felt a sense of respect for her. We weren’t on the same team, so I didn’t cook with her, but I kept an eye on her.”
As a Korean-American, you must have experienced some identity confusion. (In the show, Lee referred to himself as a “bibim human,” meaning a blend of cultures.)
“This was the first time I revealed my Korean name, Kyun. Even people around me were surprised to learn that was my name. My parents immigrated to the U.S. in the 1970s and settled in Brooklyn, New York, and always told me I had to become a ‘real American.’ They even discouraged me from learning too much Korean. That’s why I majored in English literature. There was a time when I intentionally avoided Korean culture. But as I grew older, I realized it’s impossible to be 100% American or 100% Korean. I love America and longed to be American when I was younger. But now that I have an 11-year-old daughter, I wanted to better understand Korean culture so I could teach her and pass on the rich heritage of Korea. I tell her, ‘You’re a proud American, but you’re also connected to a very ancient Korean culture.’”
How is your daughter embracing Korean culture?
”One day, I heard her listening to BTS music. When I asked if she liked Korean music, she replied, ‘Dad, this is just music.’ That moment made me realize that today’s kids grow up in a world without borders. The next generation will embrace Korean culture in ways I never did. For example, take Korean food. Thirty years ago, when people thought of Asian cuisine, they mainly thought of Japanese sushi. Who would have guessed that Korean food would become so popular in the U.S. within just one generation?”
What do you feel you’ve achieved with “Culinary Class Wars”?
“I wanted to find a way to connect more deeply with Korea. This time, when I visited, it felt like a second home, and that was an amazing experience. After the show aired, I started getting messages from people in places like Brazil, Turkey, Nigeria, and the U.K., asking, ‘What’s tteokbokki?’ One of my main goals was to showcase the beauty of Korean cuisine to the world, and seeing people’s curiosity makes me feel like I’ve succeeded.”
He mentioned that, at the time of the interview, his mother hadn’t yet watched the entire series of “Culinary Class Wars,” but she teased him, saying, ‘What kind of Korean is that?’ He had hired a Korean tutor just three weeks before filming began.
Your way with words has garnered as much attention as your cooking. You seem very articulate.
“I started cooking at 15, working as a dishwasher at a restaurant in Trump Tower, New York. My parents insisted I finish college, so I studied English literature at NYU. I’ve written three books, which I’m quite proud of. If I weren’t a chef, I might’ve become a writer. But writing is a solitary pursuit, and when I was younger, I preferred the lively energy of a restaurant, being surrounded by people.”
This chef was invited to serve as the head chef for President Yoon Suk-yeol’s state dinner at the White House last year. Initially, he declined, citing his lack of expertise in Korean cuisine. However, he later accepted the White House’s request to highlight a fusion of American and Korean dishes.
How was the response to the White House state dinner welcoming the President and First Lady of South Korea?
“First of all, I was thrilled and proud to give my mom something to boast about after all her years of hard work. I still remember President Yoon stopping by the kitchen and saying, ‘This reminds me of the galbijjim (braised beef short ribs) I ate as a child.’”
Are you considering opening a restaurant in Seoul? It seems like you’ve received several offers.
“Running a restaurant requires creativity in the kitchen and strong management skills. I’m not familiar with running a restaurant in Korea, so it would be a challenge. But I’d love to visit Korea more often. Every time I go, I make sure to try new restaurants. It’s hard to pick a favorite, but recently, I was really impressed by Onjium, a fine-dining Korean restaurant in Changseong-dong, Jongno-gu.”
What are your long-term goals?
“I just try to do my best wherever I am and follow what feels right. I’ve had offers to open restaurants in New York and L.A., but I’ve turned them down because they didn’t feel like the right fit. I believe life is a journey, and sometimes it gives you little clues, like saying, ‘Why not give this a try?’ I used to run a restaurant in New York, but after 9/11, I lost many regular customers, and I’m not sure I’ve fully recovered from that trauma. Then, by chance, I spent six months in Kentucky and ended up opening a restaurant there, where I stayed for 20 years. That’s also where I met my wife. Life often leads us to unexpected choices. I’m not someone who maps out grand goals or follows detailed plans.”
Is opening the Korean restaurant your next challenge?
“The restaurant will be small, with just 22 seats, and it’s set to open at the end of this month. We won’t be using plastic, cling wrap, gas, or any non-biodegradable materials. Even the trash bags will be eco-friendly. My plan is to run it for about five years, even if it operates at a loss. Whether it succeeds or not, I’ll document and analyze every cost, and I’ll share that information so other restaurants across the country can adopt our model. Hopefully, the lessons we learn from this experiment will inspire others in the industry.”
