In South Korea, roadside diners known as “gisa sikdang” primarily serve taxi drivers and others, offering hearty meals with plenty of side dishes at affordable prices. These diners have been feeding city residents day and night for decades, but they are gradually disappearing as their owners retire. Rising competition from inexpensive convenience store meals and the perception that Korean food should remain low-cost have discouraged new entrepreneurs from entering the market.
As traditional gisa sikdangs disappear in Korea, efforts are emerging to revive their value abroad. In April, David Joonwoo Yun opened Kisa in the heart of Manhattan, featuring a Korean-language sign that reads “Dongnam Sagori Gisa Sikdang,” which means “southeast intersection drivers' restaurant.” The restaurant serves authentic Korean dishes like bulgogi, spicy stir-fried squid, and bibimbap, accompanied by eight banchan (side dishes). Shortly after opening, Kisa gained attention from The New York Times and Eater NY, drawing long lines of New Yorkers. ChosunBiz interviewed Yun via email.
◇ A fusion Korean restaurant owner turns to traditional Korean cuisine
Yun, who has over a decade of experience in the restaurant industry, founded Kisa out of his deep appreciation for Korean food. His journey began in the early 2010s as a server at Kristalbelli, a Manhattan Korean restaurant opened by singer Park Jin-young. He later advanced to roles as an event manager, bar manager, and general manager. In 2022, Yoon launched C as in Charlie, a Southern American restaurant with Korean influences, serving fusion dishes like gochujang-coated popcorn chicken. The restaurant earned recognition in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand list for its quality and value.
Yun’s decision to open Kisa was sparked by a foreign customer’s compliment at C as in Charlie, who said, “This is my first time trying Korean food, and it’s incredible.” That moment made him realize that despite the global rise of Korean cuisine, many people had yet to experience authentic Korean dishes. “The food at C as in Charlie had Korean influences, but it wasn’t what Koreans would consider traditional Korean food,” Yun explained. This realization inspired him to make his second restaurant a place where he could showcase genuine Korean cuisine.
Yun hopes that by earning international recognition for Korea’s nopo style through Kisa, it could positively influence the Korean dining scene as well. “When I met the next generation of restaurant operators in Korea, I found that very few were running casual Korean restaurants,” he said. “The reason is simple. While people consider it reasonable to pay 20,000 to 30,000 won for a plate of pasta, there’s a widespread perception that a full Korean meal, including rice, soup, a main dish, and banchan, should be cheap.” With Kisa, Yun aims to challenge this notion and help carry on the legacy of traditional Korean cuisine.
Korean gisa sikdang come in various forms depending on the region and operating style. Some function as buffets, while others specialize in dishes like kimchi jjigae or tonkatsu. Kisa follows the baekban style, a Korean meal served rice with soup and a selection of side dishes. Yun emphasizes that one of the hallmarks of Korean cuisine is its diverse array of side dishes. “Rather than focusing on elaborate main courses, I wanted to highlight the significance of seasonal Korean side dishes, rotating them at least four times a year to introduce Americans to the concept of dining with seasonally prepared accompaniments,” he said. Some dishes, such as Cheongpomuk (Korean mung bean jelly), may be unfamiliar to local diners, but Yun believes that staying true to traditional flavors is more meaningful than modifying them to suit foreign palates.
◇ Reviving the spirit of 1980s roadside diners with Korea’s deep-rooted sense of ‘Jeong’
Many Kisa customers describe the dining experience as a nostalgic journey to Korea. Yun has meticulously designed the restaurant’s ambiance to capture elements of classic Korean eateries. Meals are served on round metal trays, reminiscent of those used in traditional Korean homes. A vintage CRT television plays classic programs such as “Korean Table” and news broadcasts from the 1990s. The walls are adorned with traditional Korean bank calendars, widely regarded as symbols of good fortune, and wall-mounted fans that evoke a sense of nostalgia. Even ingredient labels follow Korean restaurant conventions, with items sourced from Korea marked as “Korean” and U.S.-sourced products labeled as “domestic.”
Kisa blends New York’s hospitality standards with Korea’s signature warmth, or “Jeong.” Customers are greeted with a self-serve vending machine offering Korean instant coffee and yulmu tea, a feature that has become one of the restaurant’s most cherished attractions. “In Korea, it’s a common sight, but in New York, it’s a novelty,” Yun said. “Customers line up just to get a cup of coffee from the machine.” Kisa also marks customers’ birthdays with a Choco Pie topped with candles—one of Korea’s signature snacks—and trains staff to recognize repeat visitors, welcoming them back with a personalized greeting.
Kisa’s faithful recreation of a 1980s Korean roadside diner has gained widespread attention, going viral on social media while maintaining strong foot traffic and sales. A notable shift since its opening has been the restaurant’s evolving customer base. Initially, about 70% of patrons were Korean, but today, the majority are New Yorkers. “Kisa has become more than just a restaurant—it’s a gateway to Korean culture,” Yun said. “It’s a place we take great pride in, and we ensure it remains a meaningful experience for every guest through rigorous staff training.” To deepen employees’ understanding of Korean dining customs, Yun provides hands-on training, covering traditional Korean drinking etiquette and techniques for enhancing the flavors of Korean cuisine.
For now, Yun is focused on refining Kisa’s operations. As the restaurant’s popularity continues to grow, he is fine-tuning its service model to improve the customer experience. Initially, long wait times were common, but the restaurant has since implemented a partial reservation system to manage demand. “My ultimate goal is for Kisa to evolve beyond being just a Korean restaurant and establish itself as a leading hospitality group in New York,” Yun said. “I also want to inspire future generations to see the restaurant industry not just as a livelihood, but as a meaningful profession that preserves and shares the essence of Korean culture.”
