Generation Z and millennials have emerged as the main consumer groups in Korea. More recently, the popularity of K-pop, K-dramas, and K-food has led to a growing interest in Korean culture abroad. What Do Young Koreans Do series introduces the places, foods, brands, activities, and content that young Koreans are seeking out right now. [Editor’s Note]
On a crisp fall morning, a group of individuals clad in heavy coats gathered one by one at Korea House, nestled next to Namsangol Hanok Village. Drawn from various places, they converged on this tranquil neighborhood in Seoul, enticed by the promise of courtly refreshments and a dance performance.
A tastefully dressed staff member in a pastel hanbok politely cleared her throat, announcing the time - 10:55 am. As the attendees gathered their belongings and rose, the staff member explained that seating could be chosen based on arrival order. Smiling staff members, also adorned in hanboks, awaited at the end of the hall near the ballroom entrance, extending warm welcomes to the guests.
As everyone settled into their seats, the hushed rustling of clothes gradually subsided. Shortly after, a woman adorned in a vibrant robe, accompanied by traditional Korean strings and percussion, performed a slow dance. With a shy bow, she disappeared, leaving the audience in a dreamlike state.
The people, seemingly awakening from a reverie, found small dining tables presented before them. Staff members knelt respectfully, introducing each of the six types of traditional refreshments and two varieties of traditional teas.
"The refreshment on your right is called 'apple danja', which is made with glutinous rice flour, zinnia powder, chestnut flour and coconut flour on top. The word 'danja' means 'round injeolmi', which is a type of tteok, or Korean rice cake, made by steaming and pounding glutinous rice flour…"
The Kohojae tea ceremony, now in its 15th iteration in 2023, stands as a seasonal event hosted at Korea House. Kohojae, meaning “a house for lovers of the archaic,” is a brand specializing in courtly refreshments under the operation of the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation (KCHF), owner of Korea House. Commencing its journey in May 2020, the Kohojae tea ceremony has become a recurring delight for attendees.
This ceremony has carved a niche for itself, particularly among young Koreans. Since its inception, the booking rate consistently surpasses 90 percent, with Generation MZ (a term used in Korea to describe millennials from the 1980s and 1990s, as well as Generation Z from the 1990s and 2010s) dominating reservations. The heightened interest finds roots in a contemporary trend among MZers, as evidenced by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety’s data on increased domestic production of tteok, reaching 430,000 tons as of 2021—a remarkable 87 percent increase from 2017 (230,000 tons) and a 36 percent increase from 2020 (310,000 tons).
Yakgwa, a deep-fried, wheat-based Korean confection made with honey, also has experienced soaring popularity, even coining the term “yak ticketing.” The “Lucky Yakgwa” series by GS25, a Korean convenience store, achieved remarkable success, surpassing 1 million cumulative sales within two months of launch.
Beyond the realm of traditional desserts, Kohojae invites visitors into a royal experience reminiscent of the Joseon dynasty upon entering Korea House. The architectural design, inspired by Jagyeongjeon (the residence of Queen Sinjeong) in Gyeongbokgung Palace, dates back to the establishment’s inauguration in 1957 when it served as the official government reception hall.
Before indulging in the delectable refreshments, guests have the opportunity to revel in a Chunaengjeon performance—a court dance once exclusive to the royal family. Conceived by Crown Prince Hyo-myeong in 1828 to honor Queen Sunwon on her 40th birthday, this dance, named after a sparrow on a willow branch, enchants visitors.
The unique Kohojae experience resonates deeply with MZers, such as Moon Kyung-rok, a 36-year-old attendee on Nov. 21, 2023. She expressed her fondness for exploring distinct experiences, saying, “I’d recommend the Kohojae tea ceremony to my friends.” She added, “With an increasing number of people seeking ways to introduce Korean culture to their foreign friends, I believe many others will also appreciate this ceremony.”
Due to overwhelming popularity, Kohojae outgrew its previous venue, Ugeumheon, prompting a move to a larger space—Sohwadang and Hwanbyeokryu—starting in the fall of 2023, accommodating up to 54 people. Despite this expansion, the demand for floor-sitting seats in Sohwadang surpassed supply within two weeks of the online reservation site’s opening on Oct. 17. To cater to the demand, Kohojae extended its run until Dec. 12. The fall season, from Oct. 24 to Dec. 12, witnessed 2,900 attendees, contributing to a total of 7,000 attendees for the Kohojae tea ceremony in 2023.
