Despite implementing the law unifying international age system last year, many South Koreans still associate turning a year older with eating a bowl of Tteokguk with the Lunar New Year. When looking at Tteokguk, a staple food for this holiday, one might wonder: Why are the rice cakes in Tteokguk elongated and oval-shaped?
Originally, Tteokguk tteok(rice cakes) were round. Even today, in some regions like North Gyeongsang Province, Tteokguk is prepared with round rice cakes, sometimes referred to as “Sun Tteokguk” because the rice cakes resemble the sun.
“There is a record from the Joseon Dynasty court that garaetteok, the long cylindrical rice cake, was cut into circles to prepare Tteokguk as a winter night snack,” said Han Bok-ryeo, director of the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine. “In the past, the standard shape for Tteokguk tteok was round, not oval.”
Food columnist Park Jung-bae noted, “In 19th-century publications that recorded seasonal customs, such as ‘Gyeongdo Japji,’ ‘Yeolyang Sesigi,’ and ‘Dongguk Sesigi,’ Tteokguk is introduced as a Lunar New Year dish with instructions to cut white tteok made from glutinous rice into coin shapes and eat them in a meat broth, symbolizing wishes for wealth and prosperity.”
The exact time when the practice of cutting rice cakes at an angle began is unclear, but it seems to have changed quite some time ago. Choi Gil-sun, 71, the owner of Gyeonggi Tteok Shop in Mangwon-dong, Seoul, said, “I’ve been working at a rice cake shop since I was 17, and even then, the rice cakes were cut into an oval shape as they are now,” indicating that Tteokguk rice cakes have been oval-shaped for at least 50 years.
The precise reason for the shift from round to oval-shaped tteok remains unknown. Director Han speculated, “Perhaps it was because cutting the rice cakes into an oval shape made them appear much larger, giving a more generous and abundant feeling.” Upon trying both round and oval-shaped cuts from the same rice cake, it was observed that while the round rice cakes left some space when scooped with a spoon, the oval-shaped rice cakes filled the spoon more completely.
The shift to an oval shape also has scientific reasoning, in addition to visual satisfaction. The width of 2.5 cm garaetteok becomes 1.5625π(1.25×1.25×π)㎠ if sliced straight into a circle. If the same garaetteok is cut into oval shapes, the area is 3.125π (1.25×2.5×π)㎠, which is twice as large as the round rice cake.
The larger surface area allows better seasoning and heat absorption, reducing cooking time. This slicing technique is not exclusive to Tteokguk rice cakes but applies to vegetables like cucumbers and carrots.
Some attribute the prevalence of the diagonally-slicing technique to slicing machines. Director Han noted that “cutting at an angle is easier than cutting straight.” However, an official from the Korea Institute of Machinery and Materials (KIMM) explained that mechanization did not change the shape of rice cakes. “It takes more energy to slice the rice cake at an angle than right. It’s better to slice at a right angle regarding energy efficiency.”
Opinions on the superiority of circular or elliptical shapes vary among exports. Most favor oval Tteokguk rice cake, claiming there must be a good reason to shift to an oval shape. Direcor Han is an eclecticist, saying, “A perfect circle would be too small while too elongated Tteokguk rice cake easily slips off the spoon. A slightly oval shape is ideal.”
Food researcher Park Jong-sook advocates for maintaining the traditional round shape. “The white, round Tteokguk rice cake represents the sun, symbolizing purity and perfection. It is meant to bring good fortune in the new year.” Whether representing the sun or money, when considering the original meaning behind eating a bowl of Tteokguk, opting for round rice cakes aligns more sensibly.
The oval shape has long been the prevailing trend for Tteokguk tteok shape, making it challenging to find round-shaped rice cakes. Making a bowl of Tteokguk with round rice cakes requires the garaetteok to be cut by hand, as was done in the past. “To cut garaetteok easily, it’s best to leave the slices in a cool place, such as a utility room or unheated back room, for a day or two. The trick is ensuring the inside is completely dried, not just the outside.”
This article was originally published on Feb. 3, 2024.
