Traveling to foreign lands can be an exciting and exhilarating experience for all of us. However, what truly makes these moments unforgettable is the pleasure of indulging in exceptional cuisine. Seoul, the capital city of South Korea, is now gaining recognition as one of the world’s premier travel destinations, beyond Asia. K-food, which stands for Korean cuisine, is also rising in popularity, aligned with K-pop and K-culture. ChosunBiz aims to introduce Michelin-starred restaurants in Seoul that offer a modern twist on traditional Korean cuisine. [Editor’s note]
Mingles respects the origins of Korean cuisine while blending modern cooking techniques to present a new kind of Korean food. Mingles aims to be a place where the diversity of Korean cuisine can be comfortably enjoyed. While the dishes may be familiar, we strive to convey a new sensation within them, and even when creating new Korean dishes, we want them to deliver a taste that people find familiar. What we consider important is constant change and development without becoming stagnant.Kang Min-goo, the chef and the owner of Mingles
Mingles is a restaurant owned by chef Kang Min-goo who believes that ‘originality’ is a key component in creating exquisite cuisine. According to him, the intrinsic value derived from the origin of a dish never changes over time, regardless of the years that pass. Therefore, when approaching Korean cuisine, he emphasizes the importance of focusing on the fundamental elements.
One of these fundamental elements is ‘jang’, a traditional Korean fermented sauce. Kang believes that this is the most crucial element when it comes to conveying the taste of Korean food. He said, “All Korean dishes use soy sauce, doenjang (fermented soybean paste), and gochujang (red chili paste),” and added, “When Mingles first opened, the most important thing we researched was ‘jang’.”
This year, Mingles celebrates its 10th anniversary. Having received two Michelin stars, it is regarded as a pioneer of Korean fine dining. Mingles emphasizes the inherent flavors of Korean cuisine while not being afraid of evolution. This philosophy aligns well with Kang’s motto. He states, “Changing and evolving in the same space is Mingles’ goal,” and “Our direction is to continuously present new interpretations of Korean cuisine without becoming stagnant.”
If there’s a phrase that best describes Kang, it would be ‘ambassador of Korean cuisine’. He has devoted much effort to promoting the charms of Korean food abroad, including writing a recent book titled ‘Jang: The Soul of Korean Cooking’. Kang plans to embark on a book tour to gourmet cities like New York starting in March to further spread the word about Korean cuisine.
Kang believes that the charms of Korean cuisine lie in its healthiness and addictiveness. He explains that the prevalence of vegetable-based dishes in Korean cuisine not only promotes good health, but also provides an irresistible flavor that makes people crave Korean food.
According to Kang, if the traditional aspects of Korean cuisine can be properly conveyed, its popularity will last long. He also believes that beyond just being a trend, he will work hard to make Korean cuisine a part of foreigners’ daily lives.
Kang, besides running Mingles restaurant in Seoul, also owns the Michelin 1-star restaurant ‘Hansik Goo’ in Hong Kong. He has also partnered with Banyan Tree to operate ‘Festa by Mingoo’, each with its unique focus.
While Mingles offers a contemporary take on Korean cuisine, Hansik Goo concentrates on traditional Korean dishes as it is located abroad. ChosunBiz interviewed Chef Kang Min-gu on Feb. 8, at Festa by Mingoo in Banyan Tree Seoul.
Can you give a brief description of Mingles?
“Mingles is a modern Korean restaurant that is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. Although we specialize in Korean cuisine, we offer innovative dishes that prioritize creativity. At Mingles, we maintain the traditional essence of Korean food while also applying contemporary techniques and sensibilities to showcase our distinctive take on Korean cuisine.”
What do you consider the most important element in composing Korean cuisine?
“I think that ‘jang’ is the most important ingredient when it comes to Korean cuisine. Even when creating new dishes, the foundation of the basics is crucial. If you want to achieve the distinct taste of Korean food, then jang plays a vital role. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that every Korean dish uses jang in some form. At Mingles, we conducted extensive research on how to use jang effectively. I believe that jang is what defines the characteristics and foundation of Korean food.”
What kind of jang does Mingles use?
“We work with skilled jang artisans to use high-quality jang in our dishes. Our aim is to find the optimal jang for each dish. This involves studying the process of making jang and the best ways to store it.”
What are the criteria for selecting good jang?
“Every type of jang has its own unique strengths and characteristics, making it difficult to declare any one type as superior to the others. However, a high-quality jang is one that has been well-fermented using premium beans and salt.
The fundamental recipe for a good jang involves using top-quality ingredients, creating the perfect environment for fermentation, and having skilled artisans who can bring it all together.”
What motivated you to write a book?
“As I thought about how to introduce Korean cuisine, I realized that writing a book would be the best way to do it. Every cuisine deserves respect for its origins, and Korean food is no exception. It coexists with various cultures, such as vegetarian culture, temple food, jang culture, kimchi, and more. While I found many aspects of Korean food fascinating, I was particularly drawn to jang. This book aims to introduce the theory, history, and applications of jang.”
Can you also talk about the other restaurants you operate besides Mingles?
“While Mingles reinterprets Korean cuisine, Festa by Mingoo aims to give a European-style dining experience. However, both restaurants share a commitment to using seasonal ingredients and highlighting their natural flavors. I am grateful for the assistance provided by Banyan Tree Hotel in opening Festa by Mingoo.
In addition, I opened a restaurant called ‘Hansik Goo’ in Hong Kong four years ago. As it is located overseas, Hansik Goo focuses more on the authentic taste of Korean cuisine compared to Mingles.”
What is the charm of Korean cuisine, and where does it stand in the global culinary scene?
“In recent years, there has been a lot of attention on Korean culture. I think this is a great opportunity for Korean food culture to become a part of the daily lives of foreigners, more than just becoming trends.
I believe Korean cuisine has enough charm to do so. Korean food is both healthy and addictive. In the past, Korean cuisine was not as well-known as Chinese or Japanese cuisine and was only recognized for kimchi and bibimbap. However, things have changed now.”
There’s been criticism that past efforts to globalize Korean cuisine failed. What are your thoughts on that?
“It is an exaggeration to label those attempts as failures, as they have served as the foundation for the growth of Korean cuisine today. At the time, there was less interest in Korea and, consequently, less interest in Korean food. Nevertheless, I think that the past attempts to promote Korean food during that period established the groundwork, and they did not produce insignificant outcomes.”
Mingles is one of Seoul’s representative restaurants. How do you feel about that?
“There’s definitely pressure from being constantly evaluated. But these evaluations make us not become stagnant. Surprisingly, a chef’s life is very routine. There’s a set time for preparing ingredients, cleaning, etc. The customer evaluations bring new changes to what could be a monotonous routine. It’s our job always to satisfy them.”
What sets Mingles apart from other restaurants?
“I believe that Mingles offers a unique dining experience with its innovative take on Korean cuisine. The dishes served at Mingles may have familiar ingredients, but we aim to create a new and exciting flavor with each dish.
Even when introducing new Korean dishes, the goal is to provide a taste that is familiar and comforting to the diners. Mingles’ appeal lies in its ability to offer a fresh twist on the traditional Korean dishes while maintaining a sense of familiarity.”
Some people find fine dining to be difficult to approach.
“Making guests happy is the top priority for any restaurant. Some people believe they need to do research before visiting an expensive restaurant, but it is not necessary. Restaurants should not be a burden on guests. Their main goal is to offer tasty food and an enjoyable experience.
The principles for the restaurants that I manage are all the same. From preparing the glassware and dishes that are serving, every aspect has been designed to provide a comfortable experience for our guests. The higher price reflects the value we offer, and we should make our guests feel at ease enjoying the food we have prepared with utmost care.
What is your motto as a chef?
“My goal is to prepare food that I would proudly eat myself and serve to my family. I am also committed to promoting Korean cuisine globally.”
Do you have any chefs that you respect?
“In Korea, I have a lot of admiration for Chef Cho Hee-sook, and I am also quite fond of the food prepared by Monk Jeong Kwan, who is not technically a chef.
There are many international chefs that I hold in high esteem. Overall, I have the most respect for chefs who pay homage to their country’s culture, their local region, and their own cuisine.
I especially admire those who are able to create their own unique identity within their respective culinary spaces. Some of the chefs that I hold in high regard include Pascal Barbot, Emmanuel Renaut, Alain Ducasse, and Yannick Alléno.”
What advice would you give to those who dream of becoming chefs?
“If you plan to open a restaurant that reinterprets Korean food, I suggest studying Korean cuisine in Korea before going abroad. Your perspective will change once you understand Korean food and experience it overseas later.”
