On Feb. 28, TasteAtlas announced its list of the ‘Best Donuts in the World’, with South Korea’s kkwabaegi securing the 4th spot, surpassing Spain’s churros (ranked 24th) and the United States’ doughnut (ranked 35th). TasteAtlas, a global gourmet platform featuring over 10,000 traditional dishes and eateries worldwide, determines rankings by aggregating ratings from 53,640 food experts and the general public. The top three spots were claimed by bomboloni from Italy’s Tuscany region, bola de berlim from Portugal, and graffe napoletane from Italy’s Naples region, respectively.
TasteAtlas not only introduces food but also highlights representative establishments. However, when it comes to kkwabaegi, it simply states, “These donuts can be found in most Korean bakeries.” The recipe follows: “Pieces of dough are rolled into ropes, twisted into short braids, then fried in oil on both sides until golden brown. The twisted donuts are rolled in cinnamon sugar while still warm, and kkwabaegi is ready to be enjoyed.” This method is the most traditional.
Since the late Joseon Dynasty, kkwabaegi has been a popular treat, more commonly found in markets than cafes. While deep-fried dough is usually delicious, the distinct smell of oil emanating from stacked kkwabaegi in markets isn’t particularly appealing. This may explain why, a few years ago, kkwabaegi topped with cream and fruit started gaining popularity when sold in upscale cafes.
Recently, there has been a resurgence in the popularity of buying and eating kkwabaegi from markets. The glutinous rice kkwabaegi sold in Gwangjang Market in Jongno-gu, Seoul, is particularly famous. Locals in their 20s and 30s, as well as foreign tourists, queue up, sometimes prompting certain shops to assign dedicated staff to manage the crowds.
In Seongsu-dong, known for its trendy dessert shops, ‘Seongsu-dong Honey Kkwabaegi’ is among the most popular spots. They fry it on the spot, ensuring it’s always piping hot. Starting from a 2-square-meter shop, they have expanded into a nationwide chain.
At the end of last year, ‘Dongseong-ro King Glutinous Rice Kkwabaegi’ opened in Seoul’s Gwanghwamun area. It’s a kkwabaegi shop where actress Oh Seung-eun personally fries the kkwabaegi, having learned the technique from a famous shop in Dongseong-ro, Daegu.
These days, many trendy kkwabaegi shops close once they run out of their pre-made dough. They shape the dough immediately upon order, so one can’t experience the taste without visiting in person. This is why market kkwabaegi shops are often touted as ‘must-visit Korean dessert places for foreign tourists’ among YouTubers.
On the internet, there’s even a kkwabaegi taste preference battle: to add sugar or not. Those who prefer kkwabaegi with sugar argue that sprinkling crispy sugar on top of kkwabaegi is “the only right way,” while opponents claim that the stickiness of sugar detracts from its unique taste.
The main advantage of kkwabaegi is undoubtedly its price. At ‘Seongsu-dong Honey Kkwabaegi’, one piece sells for 500 won, while at Gwangjang Market, glutinous rice kkwabaegi is sold for 1,000 won per piece. Analysis suggests that the rise of retro and traditional tastes has contributed to the popularity of kkwabaegi.
