A South Korean national dish that sells 6 million bowls a day, jajangmyeon is uniquely recognized among Korea’s top 100 cultural symbols as the only food of foreign origin. It is also subject to government price control. There are various theories about the origin of jajangmyeon, which is noodles with black bean sauce, but the most prominent one suggests that it began as a cheap noodle dish consumed by Chinese workers from Shandong at the port of Incheon during the port opening period in the 1880s.
About one month before April 14, known as “Black Day” — a day when jajangmyeon consumption is exceptionally high—a book titled “The Birth of Korean Chinese Cuisine” was published. Authored by Ju Hui-feng, a third-generation ethnic Chinese in Korea and vice chairman of the ethnic Chinese association in Incheon, the book challenges traditional theories about jajangmyeon’s origins using historical records rather than mere memories and guesses.
The author points out three main errors in the commonly held beliefs about jajangmyeon: its place of origin, time of origin, and price. Ju said, “Jajangmyeon was created around 1912 in Beijing, China.” In a phone interview with Chosunilbo, Ju said, “The Beijing origin theory of jajangmyeon is well established in China, with numerous records indicating it was first made in Beijing’s tea houses.” These tea houses were upscale restaurants that served food alongside tea.
“A former head chef at the Great Hall of the People wrote in a cookbook that anyone wanting to eat jajangmyeon should visit Zhaowen, a restaurant that opened around the founding of the Republic of China in 1912 and was known for frequently serving jajangmyeon,” Ju explained. “Jajangmyeon is also mentioned in several works of modern Chinese literature, such as in the novel ‘Ben Yue’ by the literary giant Lu Xun and in the play ‘Teahouse’ by the renowned novelist and playwright Lao She, always associated with Beijing’s upscale tea houses. The essential ingredient of jajangmyeon, Tianmianjiang sauce, is a specialty of Beijing.” This sweet bean paste is also used as a sauce for another iconic Beijing dish, Peking Duck.
Ju argues that jajangmyeon was originally a luxury noodle dish, not the affordable street food it is known as today. “Especially in Korea, it was a dish eaten only at feasts. To say that Chinese dockworkers in Korea easily ate this is to judge the past by today’s standards.” According to the “Seoul Research Focus” published by the Seoul Development Institute (currently Seoul Institute) in 2004, while the city bus fare was 8 won in 1965, a bowl of jajangmyeon cost 50 won in 1968.
The adaptation of jajangmyeon in Korea began after diplomatic relations between Korea and China were severed following the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949 and the Korean War. As Tianmianjiang sauce became difficult to import from mainland China, Chunjang was developed in 1948 by a Chinese diaspora in Korea, who added caramel to the sauce, better suiting it to Korean tastes and effectively replacing Tianmianjiang.
Jajangmyeon or jjamppong? This question often leaves South Koreans agonizing. Jjamppong, the “eternal rival” of jajangmyeon, is a collaborative dish among Korea, China, and Japan. Ju defines it as “a Chinese noodle dish with a Japanese name tailored to Korean tastes.” Its origin is traced back to the “Nagasaki champon,” first made by Chinese diasporas in Nagasaki. Nagasaki champon primarily uses pork and vegetables, and lacks red chili pepper, resulting in a non-spicy, milky broth.
The transformation of jjamppong in Korea to a spicy, red dish occurred in the late 1960s. Ju introduces several theories behind its spicier adaptation: inspiration from the spicy Korean soup yukgaejang, observations of customers sprinkling red chili powder on udon and jajangmyeon, and direct requests from customers to add chili powder. “In the late 1960s, dishes like tteokbokki also turned red,” he said, linking this trend to the mass production of red chili powder during that period. Adding various seafood, such as mussels, clams, and squid, helped complete the transformation into the Korean-style jjamppong.
This article was originally published on April 13, 2024.
