After hearing BIBI’s hit song “Bam Yang Gang” (chestnut red bean jelly), which dominated the music charts last month, Ms. Ahn, a 30-year-old office worker residing in Seoul, craved chestnut red bean jelly. She decided to head to the convenience store across from her home late at night. However, upon arrival, she was informed that both chestnut red bean jelly and red bean jelly were sold out due to the song’s popularity.
Yoon Young-dal, the Chairman of Crown Confectionary, maker of Yang Gang (red bean jelly), said, “The influence of culture is remarkable, and I am thrilled these days,” as sales of Yang Gang surged to the point of being dubbed a “renaissance of Yang Gang.”
Originating in a factory abandoned by the Japanese in 1945, the seventy-nine-year-old Yang Gang was traditionally considered a ‘grandmother’s snack.’ However, with the catchy melody and simple lyrics of twenty-five-year-old BIBI, it has become a favorite among children, Gen Z, and millennials. Retailers report that sales of traditional snacks such as Yakgwa (traditional Korean honey cookies) and rice cakes have also experienced a resurgence thanks to Yang Gang’s popularity.
Although Korean culinary researcher Park Chan-il said, “Half of the memories are flavors,” half of the flavors are also memories. Even the most common flavors leave a lasting impression when associated with emotional contexts in songs, movies, and dramas. Cultural content significantly influences people’s taste preferences. It drives the food industry and serves as a cultural ambassador for Korea on the global stage.
Food plays a significant role in cinema, sometimes called a ‘food stealer’ analogous to a ‘scene-stealer’—a supporting element that captures attention more than the main characters themselves.
For instance, in the 2003 Cannes Film Festival’s Grand Prix winner ‘Old Boy,’ Choi Min-sik, the actor’s character indulges in a Gunmandu (Korean-style fried dumpling) and ingests Sannakji (live octopus). This scene prompted customers to queue up at a Chinese restaurant in Busan, where the movie was filmed. Sannakji, considered hateful in many Western cultures, even spawned the ‘octopus challenge’ overseas.
Another notable culinary sensation emerged from the film ‘Parasite,’ which clinched four Academy Awards in 2020. The dish, known as ‘Chapaguri,’ combines two popular Korean instant noodles—Chapagetti and Neoguri—and is served with strip loin steak to symbolize class distinction. The recipe was featured at the Blue House’s award celebration.
Not content with domestic success alone, Nongshim, the maker of the noodles, has expanded its reach by creating Chapaguri recipes in over ten languages worldwide and launching a new product called Chapaguri.
The global distribution of Korean content via platforms like Netflix has further accelerated the popularity of Korean cuisine worldwide. For instance, Dalgona, a toffee candy known as Ppopgi, appeared in ‘Squid Game’ in 2021. Consequently, Dalgona-making sets flew off the shelves. At the same time, previously, 50 to 100 won of Ppopgi found in local neighborhoods were rebranded as ‘Korean sugar snacks’ and ‘squid game cookies’ abroad, fetching prices exceeding 5,000 won.
Similarly, the Oscar-winning film ‘Minari’ sparked a surge in sales of Minari (water celery), accompanied by many new recipes. ‘Extraordinary Attorney Woo,’ a character from a popular Korean drama who exclusively eats Gimbap, caused Korean frozen Gimbap to sell out, contributing to last year’s record-breaking Kimchi exports surpassing 1 trillion won, leading to the coining of the term’ black semiconductor.’
