Traveling to foreign lands can be an exciting and exhilarating experience for all of us. However, what truly makes these moments unforgettable is the pleasure of indulging in exceptional cuisine. Seoul, the capital city of South Korea, is now gaining recognition as one of the world’s premier travel destinations, beyond Asia. K-food, which stands for Korean cuisine, is also rising in popularity, aligned with K-pop and K-culture. ChosunBiz aims to introduce Michelin-starred restaurants in Seoul that offer a modern twist on traditional Korean cuisine. [Editor’s note]
Zero Complex. This restaurant may sound like a luxury high-end brand name at first. But contrary to what you might expect, Zero Complex is a unique concept that has blazed a new trail in the Korean gastronomic scene by fusing traditional Korean culture with authentic French cuisine.
Chef Lee Choong-hoo has been using his restaurant to introduce French cuisine to Koreans for a long time. Although Italian cuisine has been introduced to the nation faster than French, many Koreans are now starting to appreciate the unique flavors and techniques of French cooking. After some experiments, he decided to build his own fine-dining restaurant, based on his past experience. Lee mentioned, “I believe ‘Fine dining’ is about experiencing the chef’s accumulated culinary experiences.”
Lee, who leads Zero Complex, is also known for decorating his restaurants with unique interiors that reflect the characteristics of the neighborhoods in which they are located. Zero Complex originated from Seorae Village in Seocho-gu in 2013. Later, it has since moved to Hoehyeon-dong and then to its current location in Yongsan.
He emphasizes that good food starts with good soil that can produce good ingredients, which is why Zero Complex has built symbiotic relationships with various farmers to source the highest quality ingredients fresh from each farm every day.
The chef stated, “Proper cooking, seasoning, and good ingredients are the three pillars of good cuisine,” adding that these elements describe the most accurately the direction Zero Complex is pursuing.
Lee’s ultimate goal is to pioneer his own culinary kingdom. Zero Complex offers simple French dishes and the experience of Lee’s personal philosophy about food.
He explained, “Zero Complex combines the cooking techniques I learned in France with the experiences I have gained in Korea, which created creative dishes.”
How did you come up with ‘Zero Complex’, a unique name for a restaurant?
“Actually, this name was personally created by my older sister. When I opened the restaurant, my sister provided a lot of help, so I continued to stick with this name to express my gratitude to her.
To elaborate, my sister loves the number ‘0′, so before we settled on a name for the restaurant, we had a temporary name for it: a row of fourteen zeros. My brother-in-law saw it and said it resembled an apartment complex stacked with zeros, so he suggested the name Zero Complex. I thought it was not a bad idea, so we ended up using that name.”
What drew you to start French cuisine?
“When I first encountered French food, I was shocked by its diverse menus and techniques. For example, even with ingredients familiar to Koreans like mackerel, France has a wide variety of cooking methods.
In Korea, mackerel is usually grilled or braised, but it’s different in France. I once went to a small French bistro and was shocked to see slightly cooked mackerel topped with mashed raspberries. Witnessing such unexpected cooking methods made me also want to broaden my culinary horizons.”
You worked at famous restaurants such as Le Chateaubriand in France. What did you learn during your studies in France?
“The lesson I learned during my time in France is that high-quality ingredients are essential for cooking. Living and studying in France helped me to overcome any prejudices I had about certain ingredients. I now believe that if you combine good ingredients with other good ingredients, you can create delicious cuisine. For example, rice can be paired with any side dish, and if the supplementary ingredients like fish or side dishes are of high quality, the combination is less likely to fail.
This way of thinking has also allowed me to be more open to new ideas and experimentation in cooking. Traditionally, bulgogi (Korean BBQ) is made with soy sauce, green onions, and other standard ingredients, but I’m not afraid to try new ingredients and create something unique. My experiences in France have provided me with a strong foundation for exploring new cooking techniques and ingredients.”
What direction is Zero Complex taking with regards to food?
“The key to great cooking is starting with quality ingredients, which come from good soil. That’s why Zero Complex prioritizes building relationships with top-notch farmers. The restaurant’s cuisine is characterized by exceptional ingredients, proper seasoning, and expert cooking techniques.”
What kind of dishes are included in Zero Complex’s menu?
“At Zero Complex, we offer a unique blend of French-inspired and Korean-inspired dishes. Our menus feature dishes that incorporate elements from both cultures, resulting in a one-of-a-kind culinary experience.
For example, we might combine Korean anchovy rice wraps with traditional French dishes, such as salads featuring tuna. These creative combinations allow us to find common ground between the two cultures and create exciting new dishes. Using French techniques and Korean ingredients, we’re able to offer something truly special at Zero Complex.”
Can you provide another example?
“I can tell you about a menu that features acorns, a familiar ingredient in Korean cuisine. When heated, acorns have a texture similar to cooked egg yolks, so we use them as appetizers in a form similar to egg tarts. We are constantly developing new dishes by combining traditional Korean cuisine with techniques learned in France, resulting in unique and delicious menu offerings.”
I’m curious about how you acquire good ingredients.
“We do not demand specific ingredients from collaborating farmers. Instead, we simply ask each farmer to provide their best-grown crop. We then cook using the ingredients that farmers confidently provide.”
Do you have any menus currently under development or ingredients you are considering?
“I want to recreate ‘Gyeran Jangjorim (soy sauce braised eggs)’ in a French style. Gyeran Jangjorim usually has perfectly cooked eggs with seasoning soaked in. Also, when you look at Gyeran Jangjorim, sometimes the main ingredient solidifies in the sauce, similar to when beef gelatinizes. There are dishes in France where the main ingredient is solidified in the sauce as well. I want to create a new menu by finding common ground between Korean and French cuisines.”
How would you like to be remembered as a chef?
“My aim is to create dishes that showcase my unique personality and creativity, leaving a lasting impression on my customers. I want my customers to be able to recognize my food just by looking at it.”
What is Zero Complex’s goal?
“We want to receive three Michelin stars. (Laughs) It may take 50 to 60 years, but we want to keep advancing with a goal in mind.”
