Traveling to foreign lands can be an exciting and exhilarating experience for all of us. However, what truly makes these moments unforgettable is the pleasure of indulging in exceptional cuisine. Seoul, the capital city of South Korea, is now gaining recognition as one of the world’s premier travel destinations, beyond Asia. K-food, which stands for Korean cuisine, is also rising in popularity, aligned with K-pop and K-culture. ChosunBiz aims to introduce Michelin-starred restaurants in Seoul that offer a modern twist on traditional Korean cuisine. [Editor’s note]
Comparing life to Robert Frost’s poem ‘The road not taken’, we all are pedestrians walking in the forest. Everybody’s itinerary varies, so the term “forest path” cannot fully encapsulate their different respective journeys. Moreover, even when you pursue the same route, the scenery when you first step onto the path, that you halfway through, and that you encounter when you exit the path are vastly different. The scents and sounds of the forest are also ever-changing. However, despite the detailed differences, their diverse experience can be depicted as one word, “stroll.”
Inspired by such forest paths is a fine dining restaurant called “Solbam,” awarded with one Michelin star. Chef Eom Tae-jun named the restaurant after a place that holds precious memories for him. He wanted to share with his customers the special place where he had built many cherished memories.
Solbam is a small forest located in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It’s a secluded spot where buses stop running as early as 7 PM. However, Eom finds this place exceptionally comforting because it allows him to fully enjoy his personal time without disturbances. He believes the charm of Solbam is thought to be at its best at night, which is why his restaurant of the same name only operates for dinner.
Eom aims to provide his customers with a similar experience through Solbam. The dining course is designed to mimic a walk through a forest path.
One unique aspect of Solbam is that the dining space is divided into two areas. Upon entering, guests are greeted by the “dark and dim” entrance of the path. Much like inhaling the deep forest air when you first set foot in the woods and soaking up the atmosphere, guests can get a feel for the whole meal with the first course being served here. A savory chicken liver mousse atop pork jowl, accompanied by a sweet corn and salty caviar bite, whets the appetite.
Afterward, guests move to the main “trail” or the culinary journey. At this point, dishes like a refreshing tomato lemon water-based dish with bluefin tuna and northern clams, and a mixed rice dish with scallops and dill are prepared. The meal then reaches its peak with courses featuring butterfish, lobster, duck, and Hanwoo beef sirloin. The stroll concludes on a sweet note with omija (Schisandra berries) jelly, matcha (green tea powder) green tea choux, and caramel crisps.
The experience at Solbam doesn’t end when the visitors finish dinner, as the restaurant gives tea, coffee, and pound cake as parting present for visitors to enjoy the lingering memory of the meal. This thoughtful gesture, allowing a piece of Solbam to be enjoyed with the morning sunlight on the next day, is one of the values the restaurant strives to deliver.
―Please introduce yourself briefly.
“My name is Eom Tae-jun, and the owner chef of Solbam. I first encountered cooking at the age of 21 while working at a Chinese restaurant. After that, I developed an interest in Western cuisine. After working at world-renowned restaurants such as Eleven Madison Park, I opened Solbam.”
―What kind of place is Solbam?
“Solbam is a place where new attempts are made with the roots of Korean food. You can see it as a neo-classic Korean restaurant. Personally, I value maintaining the roots of a particular genre within my cooking because even with creative attempts, the foundation remains unchanged.”
―It is known that Solbam operates only for dinner.
“That’s right. Even if we serve the same food for lunch and dinner, the time difference can make customers perceive it differently. To explain it in terms of movies, the genre I want to present is like a long-featured film. Usually, a fine dining dinner course lasts about two hours, but I felt that was too short to convey the emotions I wanted to express. Currently, Solbam’s dinner course lasts about 3 to 4 hours.”
―Why did you name your restaurant Solbam?
“Solbam is the name of a region in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. I have many personal memories there. Whether I was going through hard times or happy times, I would visit this place to reflect. Every time I visited, my emotions were different, but Solbam always comforted me. I wanted to deliver that feeling to my customers, so I named the restaurant Solbam.”
―What do you consider important in running a restaurant?
“In fine dining, the harmony among team members is crucial. It can never be done alone. Every position and responsibility of each team member must flow organically. That’s why my name is placed among the team members’ names in our pamphlet. I wanted to emphasize that every team mate is important, and it’s unfortunate when only the head chef gets all the attention.”
―How do you feel about receiving a Michelin star just one year after opening?
“I have always considered receiving a Michelin star as part of my life goal. Receiving the star was a great honor for me and a sign that my path was correct. I will continue to strive to achieve a better reputation, but I don’t want to be a chef who chases only Michelin stars.”
―How are you preparing for this summer season?
“We are designing the menu to match the refreshing feeling of the summer season, considering seasonal ingredients like super sweet corn. However, we aim to avoid overly intense flavors to ensure the menu’s tastes blend seamlessly. Just like a walk through a forest path, we strive to create a natural and harmonious dining experience. A stroll is comforting, and I hope the dining experience at Solbam evokes the same feeling.”
―What’s your favorite ingredient at the moment?
“My favorite ingredient is green onions because of their diverse flavors. Raw green onions are spicy but become sweet when grilled and develop a rich, deep flavor when boiled. The white and green parts have distinct flavors. One of my goals is to create dishes that capture the complex flavors of green onions.”
―How do you want to be remembered as a chef?
“I want to be remembered as a chef who never stops striving to improve and who always sets high standards for myself. I am deeply grateful to everyone who visits Solbam. It would mean the world to me if people recognize the hard work and sincerity of Solbam’s staff.”
