To be considered a master in a particular culinary field, several qualities are essential. Outstanding taste in food and extensive experience as a chef are important, but they are not enough on their own. To become a true master, one must win the hearts of customers. Only by being widely loved can a chef be elevated to the status of a master.
Chef Lee Yeon-bok of Mokran, renowned as a master of Chinese cuisine, is one of such chefs who values sincerity and passion. He believes that having the right mindset is crucial to creating good food. Chef Lee emphasizes not only the importance of understanding the customer’s desires but also the emotional state of the person cooking.
According to him, the state of mind greatly influences the outcome of a dish. Even if the same ingredients are cooked in the same way, the taste can vary significantly depending on the chef’s mindset.
For instance, cooking in a bad mood might lead to ingredients being carelessly thrown together and a sloppy presentation. On the other hand, a thoughtful approach that considers the customer’s taste and presentation often comes from a joyful heart.
Therefore, Chef Lee always takes a moment to compose himself before standing in front of the wok. He believes that a joyful heart, combined with the wok, can infuse the ingredients with that emotion, which will be conveyed onto the plate.
When thinking of a positive mindset, one might consider feelings of joy, love, and various other emotions. However, Chef Lee is particularly moved by the concept of devotion and respect towards parents.
He believes that cooking with the mindset of serving one’s parents results in the best flavors. This philosophy is reflected in the name of his restaurant, Mokran, inspired by the popular Disney movie ‘Mulan’. He was deeply moved by Mulan’s act of disguising herself as a man and taking her father’s place in the army, despite the risk of death.
Mokran’s signature dishes are Dong Po Rou (Braised Pork Belly) and Menbosha (Fried Shrimp Toast). Lee’s Dong Po Rou is so tender it feels almost like pudding, breaking apart with a gentle touch of chopsticks. The rich, fatty flavor of the pork blends harmoniously with the sweet and salty sauce. Paired with crunchy bok choy, it offers a delightful texture contrast.
Menbosha, slowly fried to a perfect state, is renowned for its crispiness. Inside the crunchy bread is a patty made purely of shrimp. A single bite releases the nutty flavor of the bread and the delicate shrimp juices, which fill the mouth with a subtle richness. Dipping it in the accompanying sweet and sour sauce adds a different dimension to the taste.
Recently, Chef Lee also co-launched a Korean-style Kaoliang liquor called ‘Lee Yeon (利緣)’. Made entirely from sorghum, it resembles traditional Kaoliang but leaves a heavy grain aroma that lingers in the throat after swallowing. Some might find this musty, but it pairs well with rich dishes.
Next on Chef Lee’s agenda is commercializing Xiaolongbao, a type of Dim Sum. He insists that his fame should not inflate the price of his food. He believes that food should be judged on its own merits, not on the chef’s reputation.
―Could you please introduce yourself?
“My name is Lee Yeon-bok, and I run Mokran. I started my culinary career at the young age of 13. I believe I was in the sixth grade of elementary school when I first started by making deliveries. At 17, I formally began learning how to cook. Before opening Mokran, I worked at the Savoy Hotel, the Taiwanese Embassy, and spent about 10 years in Japan.”
―How would you describe your Chinese cuisine?
“I follow tradition but blend in a lot of my own experiences. Having worked in Korea, China, and Japan, I draw from the experiences I’ve gained from these places. My dishes are less greasy than traditional Chinese cuisine and have been developed to suit Korean tastes. In fact, while developing a new dish is challenging, making an existing dish better is easier. So, when educating others, I always emphasize creating something unique even if it’s just jajangmyeon. If it’s the same as everywhere else, there’s no reason for customers to come here.”
―Could you describe Mokran to our readers?
“Mokran is everything to me. It’s a place where my struggles, joy, and efforts are all mixed together. When I first opened the restaurant, I was completely dedicated to it. Initially, it was opened in Yeoksam, then moved to Apgujeong, Gangbuk, and now it’s located in Yeonhui-dong.”
―What does the name mean?
“The name was inspired by the Disney animation ‘Mulan’. When I was in Japan, I couldn’t be with my father when he passed away. Seeing Mulan’s devotion to her father resonated with me deeply, and that’s how the name came about. Many people say they will show their devotion and respect to their parents after they earn money, but no matter how much you earn, it means nothing if your parents are no longer around.”
―You’ve mentioned a painful past of losing your sense of smell. How did you overcome it?
“While working at the Taiwanese Embassy, I had severe sinusitis. A surgery I underwent at the time went wrong, causing me to lose my sense of smell. This could have been fatal for a chef, so I worked hard to sharpen my other senses, especially taste. To this day, I follow three practices: I don’t eat breakfast, I don’t smoke, and I don’t overdrink. These practices help keep my palate sharp. Cooking on an empty stomach allows me to accurately taste the food. Overdrinking dulls the sensitivity needed when seasoning food, and smoking leaves a lingering aftertaste in the mouth.”
―What do you think are the virtues a chef should possess?
“Being diligent is crucial, especially when it comes to maintaining a clean kitchen, as it directly impacts the restaurant’s reputation. At Mokran, we do a thorough cleaning every day. Skipping a day makes the next day’s cleaning twice as hard. Being diligent also means finding the best ingredients, which requires frequent trips to the market to see and taste them firsthand. The secret to running a successful business is actually simple and widely known. However, knowing what needs to be done and actually doing it are very different things.”
―What is the most important aspect of cooking?
“It’s the mindset. Both the cleanliness of the store and dedication to the food come from one’s mindset. When I was in Japan, there was always a colleague who continued working hard alone even after his shift ended. I once asked him what the most important aspect of cooking was. He answered, ‘the heart.’ At the time, I laughed it off, but now I understand what he meant. The taste of food changes completely depending on whether you’re frustrated or happy. The same goes for service.”
―How would you like to be remembered as a chef?
“I don’t have big dreams. I’d like to be remembered as a friendly, approachable chef, like a neighbor. It would be nice to be someone people can comfortably come to. In the future, I want to focus on doing my given tasks diligently. Setting goals makes me feel pressured to achieve them, which is stressful (laughs). I just want to do my best in the tasks at hand and be prepared for what’s to come.”
