For displaced individuals, Pyongyang (Pyeongyang) naengmyeon—a cold noodle dish—evokes a deep sense of nostalgia; for younger generations, it offers a novel and refreshing culinary experience. Originally conceived as a winter dish, it has evolved into an iconic summer delicacy. The noodles capture the crisp essence of late autumn, coinciding with the buckwheat harvest. A sip of the chilled broth delivers a cooling sensation throughout the body, making it worth enduring long queues at renowned naengmyeon restaurants, even during sweltering heatwaves.
Historically, Pyongyang naengmyeon served as comfort food for North Korean expatriates. The most famous eateries were often filled with elderly patrons speaking in the strong dialects of the Kwanso region (encompassing Pyeongan-do and Hwanghae-do) and their descendants. Southerners, however, often disparaged the dish, describing it as bland or comparing it to “noodles soaked in dishwater.”
Despite such criticisms, Pyongyang naengmyeon has not only survived but thrived. Increasing numbers of young people have begun to appreciate the subtlety of its flavors. Interest in the dish surged in South Korea around the time of the 2018 inter-Korean summit, spurring a proliferation of new contenders in the naengmyeon scene. This has led to intense competition among established restaurants, culminating in a ‘war’ for the title of the best naengmyeon.
As of July 2024, which restaurant stands as the best? We consulted ten experts from the food and dining industry, each of whom provided a ranked list of their top ten Pyongyang naengmyeon establishments, excluding any they are associated with. Points were awarded from 10 for the first place to 1 for the tenth, with the total scores determining the final ranking. Here are the ‘Top 10 Pyongyang Naengmyeon Restaurants’ in the country.
The list reveals a fierce rivalry between traditional establishments and trendy newcomers. Five of the top ten are first-generation restaurants, identifiable by the character ‘oak (ok)’ (meaning ‘house’) in their names. The remaining five are second and third-generation establishments. First-generation restaurants were founded and operated by displaced Northerners and their descendants. In contrast, second-generation restaurants faithfully reproduce the flavors learned from the first generation, while third-generation restaurants pursue entirely new innovations.
Topping the list is ‘Woo Lae Oak,’ Seoul’s oldest Pyongyang naengmyeon restaurant. Founded in 1946 by Jang Won-il, who previously managed ‘Myungwolkwan’ in Pyongyang, the restaurant reopened under its current name after the Korean War, meaning ‘house to return to.’ The panel lauded it for epitomizing the perfect harmony of flavors in Pyongyang naengmyeon, featuring a broth made exclusively from Korean beef and buckwheat-flavored noodles. They noted, “The savory broth is so approachable that even those unfamiliar with Pyongyang naengmyeon can easily enjoy it,” adding that “other menu items like grilled beef and cold kimchi noodles enhance the overall dining experience.”
In second place is ‘Pildong Myeonok,’ part of the Uijeongbu-style naengmyeon category, along with ‘Eulji Myeonok’ (third place) and ‘Pyeongyang Myeonok (Uijeongbu)’ (tied for sixth). Originally from Daedong County in Pyeongan Province, Hong Yeong-nam and Kim Gyeong-pil gained fame at ‘Pyeongyang Myeonok’ in Jeongok, Gyeonggi-do, before moving to Uijeongbu in 1987. Their eldest son, Hong Jin-kwon, continues the family business. Meanwhile, their second daughter, Hong Jeong-suk, runs Eulji Myeonok in Seoul, which opened in 1985, while their eldest daughter, Hong Soon-ja, manages Pildong Myeonok. The youngest daughter, Hong Myeong-suk, operates ‘Pyeongyang Myeonok in Uijeongbu (formerly Bon-ga Pyeongyang Myeonok)’ in Jamwon-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul.
Uijeongbu-style naengmyeon is distinguished by its mild broth made from a blend of beef and pork, offering a unique umami flavor that deepens with each bite. A sprinkle of finely ground red pepper powder adds a distinctive touch. Pildong Myeonok’s naengmyeon is notable for its pronounced umami, giving it a ‘sweet’ taste compared to other Uijeongbu-style establishments. It was highly rated for its “clear and refreshing broth, excellent balance of meat flavor, umami, and saltiness, and perfectly chewy noodles.” Experts noted, “In recent years, Pildong Myeonok has consistently maintained its high quality, making it a reliable choice.”
Eulji Myeonok, renowned for its particularly mild flavor among Uijeongbu-style naengmyeon, is often considered challenging for beginners but is highly addictive for those who develop a taste for it. One panelist who ranked it first remarked, “An international guest I brought along likened it to ‘Consommé’ (a clear French beef soup) and was captivated by its subtle beef flavor and clean taste.”
