Traveling to foreign lands can be an exciting and exhilarating experience for all of us. However, what truly makes these moments unforgettable is the pleasure of indulging in exceptional cuisine. Seoul, the capital city of South Korea, is now gaining recognition as one of the world’s premier travel destinations, beyond Asia. K-food, which stands for Korean cuisine, is also rising in popularity, aligned with K-pop and K-culture. ChosunBiz aims to introduce Michelin-starred restaurants in Seoul that offer a modern twist on traditional Korean cuisine. [Editor’s note]
Describing the perfect dish is a challenge, and likely an impossible one. The idea of perfection varies from person to person, making food seem like an unattainable ideal. Some even say that food represents a state beyond reach, because in the subjective world of taste, there is no universal answer that satisfies everyone.
However, while perfection may remain elusive, it is possible to move toward completeness. This involves constantly seeking better flavors and evolving through every attempt. Even if the goal of 100 is never reached, the journey from 99 to 99.9 represents progress. It’s this dedication that forms the foundation for creating an extraordinary culinary world, and it’s essential for anyone striving to be more than just a chef, but a true artisan.
This unwavering commitment to craftsmanship is what defines Mitou, the restaurant led by chefs Kwon Young-woon and Kim Bo-mi. The name Mitou, meaning “a state yet to be reached,” reflects their humble approach to their craft. Despite having earned two Michelin stars, the chefs remain modest, believing there is always room for improvement. They named their restaurant Mitou as a reminder to never lose their sense of beginner’s mind and to keep striving for something greater.
To achieve a higher level of excellence, the chefs of Mitou pay attention to every detail. From the size of the restaurant to the serving methods and even the ingredients, nothing escapes their care. This dedication to craftsmanship is likely one of the reasons Mitou has gained a reputation as one of the hardest fine-dining establishments to book in Korea, with reservations often requiring a wait of six months or more.
One of the key elements they focus on is perfecting the rice, the foundation of their signature dish, sotbap (Korean traditional rice cooked in an iron pot). No matter how exquisite the side dishes may be, they are meaningless without exceptional rice. To achieve this, the chefs have gone to great lengths, even growing their own rice. Mitou is one of the few restaurants where everything, from the choice of soil and water conditions to the harvesting methods, is carefully managed to produce the best possible rice.
Beyond this, Mitou continuously works to present Japanese cuisine tailored to Korean ingredients. Freshness and seasonality are paramount, and using local Korean produce often enhances the flavors. The chefs also respect Korean food culture, incorporating native ingredients like Korean native chicken, croaker fish, abalone, and eel into their seasonal summer menus, which are themed around nourishment.
Among their most iconic dishes is the fried snakehead fish. Carefully prepared and stuffed with yam, it is then fried to a crisp and topped with a sauce made from shionoko, a traditional seasoning from Niigata, Japan. The first bite offers a blend of salty and savory flavors, with subtle hints of garlic and chili. Compared to typical fish sauces, this one is cleaner, leaving only a gentle, lingering aroma. The crispy snakehead fish delivers a rich, nutty flavor, while the crunchy yam inside adds a pleasant texture.
Mitou’s focus on seasonal ingredients also leads to an ever-evolving menu, featuring rare and unique dishes like pheasant, abalone, soft-shelled turtle, eel, and black garlic.
For the upcoming autumn course, the chefs have curated ingredients that reflect the essence of the season. As the earth cools, the scent of root vegetables like lotus root and taro becomes more prominent. These earthy ingredients, along with dishes like lotus root dumplings and taro karaage (Japanese-style fried food), are highlights of the autumn menu.
Mitou also features dishes made with okdom (tilefish), which is lightly dried and grilled over charcoal to bring out its chewy texture. It is served with chestnuts and truffles, capturing the essence of autumn. Another version of the dish features grilled tilefish skin with a creamy sauce made from taro and soy milk, alongside fermented soybeans for a unique flavor combination.
Despite the precision and dedication that go into every dish, the chefs’ ambitions for Mitou are quite simple. They hope that their restaurant is remembered as a place where guests enjoyed a memorable time. Mitou aims to introduce new ingredients, expand culinary horizons, and create a place where people can always trust the food, regardless of the ingredients used. This is the driving force behind their continued dedication.
―Tell us about Mitou.
Kwon Young-woon (Kwon): “Mitou is a restaurant that reinterprets Japanese cuisine to suit Korea. We focus on cooking with seasonal ingredients that are at their peak. I started my culinary career in Korea but eventually went to Japan to study. There, I was captivated by the craftsmanship of Japanese chefs, which inspired me to pursue Japanese cuisine.”
Kim Bo-mi (Kim): “I moved to Japan in 2012 and spent about four years. Like Chef Kwon, I became deeply interested in the dedication of Japanese artisans. During my time there, I met many masters and working alongside them made me reflect on their passion and commitment to their craft.”
―Why did you choose the name Mitou, which means “a state yet to be reached”? What does Mitou aim to achieve?
Kim: “As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to learn from renowned artisans. When we started Mitou, I felt that we were still lacking compared to those masters, so we chose the name to reflect that. It also reminds us to maintain the beginner’s mindset we had when we opened. Setting a specific goal can make you feel like you’ve reached the end once it’s achieved, but food is a field with no definitive end. That’s why we named the restaurant Mitou.”
Kwon: “There’s a phrase in Korean meaning “a path not yet walked by others.” I believe food is much the same. Perfection is an elusive concept in this field. But the process of moving toward perfection is what matters. Even if we never fully reach it, the effort to get there feels almost like a form of spiritual practice.”
―Mitou focuses on Japanese cuisine with a Korean touch. What does that mean?
Kwon: “While we create Japanese dishes, we, as chefs, and most of our guests, are Korean. Plus, the restaurant is in Korea, so it’s difficult to replicate Japanese cuisine exactly. The land is different, so the cooking methods must be adapted. This doesn’t mean that Korean ingredients are necessarily better than Japanese ones, but Korea has many excellent ingredients that remain relatively unknown. Supporting local producers is key to creating a virtuous cycle that benefits everyone. That’s why we make sure to include the names of our producers in our restaurant’s pamphlets.”
Kim: “Korea has an abundance of high-quality ingredients, thanks to our many seasonal changes. This spring, I was particularly impressed with myeongyi (wild leek). In Japan, it’s sometimes used in tempura, but the Korean variety, wild leek was much more flavorful. It’s subtle differences like these that we want to highlight.”
―What do you find special about Japanese cuisine?
Kwon: “It emphasizes using seasonal ingredients and enhancing the natural flavors of each component. While Korean cuisine focuses on the harmony of mixed ingredients, Japanese cuisine values the distinct taste of each individual element. At Mitou, we aim to balance these approaches, bringing out the best of each ingredient while ensuring harmony in the overall dish.”
Kim: “There’s also a unique intimacy with diners in Japanese cuisine. The physical proximity between the chef and the guests allows for more frequent interaction. This closeness makes it easier to listen to guests’ feedback, which adds to the appeal of Japanese cuisine.”
―Mitou is known for using ingredients you cultivate yourselves. Can you tell us more about that?
Kwon: “Yes, my father grows the rice we use at the restaurant. His organic rice farm has even received a ministerial award for excellence. To create the perfect rice, we’ve selected a variety of rice that grows well in Daejeon and the Chungcheong region. We also use methods like sparse planting, farming in goraesil fields (known for deep soil and good water flow), and organic farming with snails. Every step, from drying the rice using sunlight to ensuring a clean milling process, is carefully managed.”
Kim: “In addition to rice, we also raise chickens and produce our own eggs. We started with Korean native chickens and then switched to Cheonggye chickens. Now, we raise Nagoya Cochin, one of Japan’s top three chicken breeds. To maintain pure bloodlines, we don’t mix with other breeds, and we hatch and raise the chickens ourselves.”
―Can you tell us about the upcoming autumn menu?
Kwon: “In September, we want to capture the transition from summer to autumn. We’ll use root vegetables like lotus root, burdock, and taro to evoke the earthy aroma and coolness that come with the changing seasons. Tilefish and conger eel will also be featured in this season’s course.”
―What message do you want to leave for your guests?
Kwon: “Beyond providing delicious food, I hope Mitou is remembered as a place that evokes memories of good times. We pay close attention to every detail to ensure our guests feel comfortable and relaxed.”
Kim: “I want to be remembered as a chef whom guests trust. Even when introducing unfamiliar ingredients, I hope diners will feel confident in trying them. I’m also constantly thinking about the pairing of food and drinks. My goal is to consistently offer the best dining experience and atmosphere.”
