The warm, savory scent of dwaeji gukbap (pork soup) greeted me as I stepped out of Busan Station. It’s hardly surprising—there are around a dozen dwaeji gukbap restaurants near the station. Busan is the capital city of dwaeji gukbap. Choi Won-jun, a native Busan poet and food columnist, describes dwaeji gukbap as “the soul food that represents everything about Busan—its history, culture, and character.”
The humble dwaeji gukbap is not just the city’s symbol—it is Busan’s most consumed dish. According to 2019 data from the Small Enterprise and Market Service, 692 restaurants in Busan feature “dwaeji gukbap” in their names. On a national scale, a staggering 26% of the 2,703 such restaurants were located in Busan.
When counting restaurants that serve pork soup without explicitly using it in their names, the number rises to 742 in Busan. This is double the number of restaurants serving pork cutlets (365) and 13 times more than those serving spaghetti (54), based on 2019 data from the Korea Foodservice Industry Association.
Busan’s love for dwaeji gukbap is also evident in online search trends. Google Trends data since 2004 reveals that while jajangmyeon (black bean noodles) dominated search volumes nationwide, Busan was the only city where dwaeji gukbap searches overtook jajangmyeon with a 60:40 lead.
Which restaurant holds the crown for the best dwaeji gukbap in Busan as of January 2025? To find out, the Chosun Daily asked 10 food and dining industry experts to select their top 10 Busan dwaeji gukbap spots. Any establishments they had personal ties to were excluded from the poll. Each expert ranked their top 10, and points were awarded from 10 for first place to one for tenth place, then the scores were added up. Narrowing down the list was a challenge, given the abundance of exceptional dwaeji gukbap restaurants and the diversity in their styles. The following is the “Top 10 Dwaeji Gukbap Restaurants in Busan” list.
◇First, second, and third generation of dwaeji gukbap
Seasoned second-generation dwaeji gukbap restaurants dominate the top 10 list, including Hapcheon Gukbap, Jamae Gukbap, Jangteo Gukbap, Youngjin Dwaeji Gukbap, and Yangsan Gukbap. Long-established first-generation eateries like Sinchang Gukbap and Halmae’s 60-Year Legacy Gukbap also made the list. Emerging players classified as third or even 3.5 generation, such as Jin Dwaeji Gomtang and Hwanamjeong Dwaeji Gukbap, are making their mark, reflecting a dynamic mix of tradition and innovation.
Busan’s dwaeji gukbap restaurants are often categorized into three generations. The first generation emerged after the Korean War in 1950, when refugees from across the country cooked pork heads and offal to make a living. Food columnist Park Jung-bae notes, “Busan’s dwaeji gukbap blends elements of Gyeongsang and North Korean cuisine. The Gyeongsang style features a rich, milky broth like gomtang, while the North Korean style is clear. Sundae (blood sausage) and dadaegi (spicy seasoning) also originate from North Korea.”
Food culture expert Choi Won-jun adds, “Various influences have shaped Busan’s dwaeji gukbap, from North Korea’s meat broths and sundae to Jeju Island’s momguk and meat noodles, Miryang’s ox-head broth dwaeji gukbap, Japan’s tonkotsu ramen, and Daegu’s ttarogukbap.”
The second generation saw dwaeji gukbap evolve into a dining industry, with restaurants serving milky broths made from pork bones, often accompanied by cuts like shoulder and hind leg, and slices of sundae. These restaurants gained popularity in major commercial areas starting in the 1980s.
The third generation has elevated the dish using premium cuts like pork jowl. Many of these establishments are run by descendants of first- and second-generation operators. Some even form a “3.5 generation,” inspired by Seoul’s Okdongsik, using ingredients like Berkshire K black pork and leek oil or crafting broth as rich as tonkotsu ramen.
The top-rated restaurant in this year’s rankings, Hapcheon Gukbap, represents the second generation. Its broth is strikingly clear and flavorful, with no gamy taste. Typically, meat-based broths are clear, while bone-based broths are milky. However, this restaurant combines pork and bone marrow, skimming the broth early to retain clarity while delivering the savory depth of marrow. Ulsan’s Matchandeul CEO, Ji Sung-woo, compared it to naengmyeon broth, praising its lack of greasiness and its clean yet layered flavor. “The first spoonful might seem mild, but as you continue, the depth pulls you in. I couldn’t stop drinking the broth even without adding dadaegi,” he said.
The restaurant also maintains the traditional toryeom method, warming rice by dipping it in hot broth, instead of mixing it directly into the soup. By preserving tradition while innovating within its framework, the restaurant appeals to diners ranging from locals in their 30s to out-of-town visitors in their 60s. Last year, the Michelin Guide recognized its value by awarding it a Bib Gourmand designation for affordability and quality.
The second-place Jamae Gukbap reflects a fusion of Jeolla-style dwaeji gukbap with Busan’s version. It uses pork head meat, known for its rich, lip-smacking broth and umami flavor, though it can be tricky to avoid gamy notes. The Jeolla-native owner achieves a perfectly savory broth free from unpleasant odors, a feat she attributes to boiling the meat three times and discarding the last batch of water. Before the main dish is served, diners are treated to an appetizer of pork head meat, lung, and liver on a small plate—delicacies that could stand alone as a bestseller. Accompanying side dishes, like kimchi and seokbakji (cubed radish kimchi), deliver the bold flavors characteristic of Jeolla cuisine.
Ranked third, Jangteo Gukbap is tucked away in an alley behind the Guse Obstetrics and Gynecology Hospital in Seo-gu, Busan. Despite its hidden location, the restaurant attracts not only locals but also international visitors, including tourists from Japan. Food critic Park Jung-bae praised it as a “diamond-like rendition of pork soup, where traditional cooking methods have been refined to deliver a pure and sophisticated taste.”
The broth is made by boiling pork leg bones generously covered in meat for less than three hours. The restaurant’s owner, Woo Jeom-soon, explained, “Pork bones are thinner than beef bones, so boiling them too long degrades the flavor.” The resulting medium-bodied broth is rich and savory without any unpleasant odors. This style is likely to appeal to those more accustomed to beef bone soup. The soup is generously filled with thinly sliced pork shoulder, and their suyuk baekban (boiled pork platter with rice) features tender pork jowl served with a bowl of pork broth and rice.
Ranked fourth, Yeongjin Dwaeji Gukbap offers a milky pork bone broth seasoned with onion-based condiments for a rich yet refreshing flavor. Its suyuk baekban, featuring pork jowl served with tofu kimchi, is as popular as the gukbap itself. Founded in 1995 by Kim Sung-ho and his wife, the restaurant initially operated at half its current size. Their son Do-won has since joined them, continuing the family tradition as the second-generation owner.
At Yangsan Gukbap in Haeundae, the value of toryeom gukbap (pre-mixed rice and soup) is highlighted by its pricing—about a dollar higher than the separately served version, tarogukbap. This is contrary to the pricing norm at most gukbap restaurants, where tarogukbap is typically the more expensive option.
Toryeom involves repeatedly pouring hot broth over rice in a separate bowl and draining it, a method once mistakenly viewed as unhygienic or as a way to reuse leftover rice. higher than the separately served tarogukbap. This pricing approach is opposite to that of most gukbap restaurants, where tarogukbap is usually the more expensive option. Toryeom involves repeatedly pouring hot broth over rice in a separate bowl and draining it, a method once mistakenly viewed as unhygienic or as a way to reuse leftover rice.
Choi Won-jun described toryeom as a process that “integrates the rice and soup into one harmonious dish, keeping it warm for longer.” He further explained, “The hot, rich broth is absorbed into the cold rice, enriching its flavor and nutrients. At the same time, it balances the amount of starch released from the rice, preserving the texture of the grains. This method ensures the soup remains flavorful, and the rice retains its consistency, allowing you to enjoy your meal at an optimal temperature.”
Park Jong-ho, the senior reporter of Busan Ilbo remarked, “In terms of overall balance, I’d rank this restaurant as my top choice. The quality of the meat, the broth’s consistency, and the cleanliness and friendliness of the staff are all outstanding. Plus, you can enjoy premium drinks like the traditional soju ‘Ilpoom Jinro’ or Japanese whiskey ‘Hibiki’ by the glass, which adds a touch of personal indulgence.”
◇Milky Broth vs. Clear Broth: Contrasting Flavors in Busan’s Gukbap
Among the original pork soup restaurants established in the 1950s and 1960s, Sinchang Gukbap ranked fifth, and Halmae’s 60-Year Legacy Gukbap ranked tenth, maintaining the presence of these historic establishments.
Shinchang Gukbap is famous for being frequented by prominent figures such as Samsung Group Chairman Lee Jae-yong, LG Group Chairman Koo Kwang-mo, and Hanwha Group Vice Chairman Kim Dong-kwan. Founded in 1969 by Seo Hye-ja at the International Market with just two tables, it has since expanded to the main store in Toseong-dong and three branches. The clear brown broth is distinctive, made with 17 ingredients including dried radish greens, mung bean sprouts, and tofu, combined with broth made from boiling bones and meat. Both the gukbap and boiled pork include lean meat, sundae, and innards. The sundae is especially flavorful.
Halmae’s 60-Year Legacy Gukbap began in 1956 by the late Choi Soon-bok, a refugee from Pyongyang, in front of the Samhwa Rubber Factory. The clear broth, rich with fatty meat chunks and garnished with chopped green onions and chili powder, presents a unique look that even seasoned gukbap enthusiasts may find unfamiliar.
Busan pork soup differs widely in taste despite sharing the same name and main ingredient. The most distinctive feature is the broth, which can be categorized into three types: “milky broth,” “medium broth,” and “clear broth.”
The milky broth is usually made from boiled pork leg bones, resulting in a rich, savory taste. It resembles Jeju’s momguk, meat noodles, Japanese tonkotsu ramen, and Miryang’s beef bone pork gukbap. Medium broth, sometimes called “slightly lighter broth,” is made from a mix of pork bones, meat, and innards, or by boiling whole pig heads. It offers deep flavor and umami, popularized by North Korean refugees who settled in Busan. Columnist Choi described it as “the prototype of commercialized Busan pork gukbap.”
Clear broth is made from boiled pork used for suyuk. Originating from western Gyeongsang Province’s pork soup, it is clean and neat, without any pork odor or off-flavors. The meat toppings also vary, including pig head meat such as jowls, innards, and sundae, as well as pork neck and leg meat.
Third-generation Busan pork gukbap restaurants are attracting younger generations unfamiliar with pork gukbap by offering clear broth and upgrading their offerings with premium cuts like pork belly and pork collar. Hapcheon Ilryu Dwaeji Gukbap, ranked seventh, offers an unexpectedly refreshing taste despite its rich and intense flavor from generous amounts of minced garlic and dadaegi. Kim Mi-joo, a Kookje Daily News reporter, noted, “It preserves the authentic gukbap style while enhancing umami and reducing odors through garlic seasoning.” The restaurant pioneered self-service rice and side dish refills. Their “pork udon,” which substitutes rice with udon noodles, is also popular.
Ranked eighth on the list, Jin Dwaeji Gomtang has quickly become a favorite among the MZ generation (Gen Z and Millennials), despite opening less than a year ago. Its appeal lies in a harmonious blend of flavor, design, presentation, and service, embodying the essence of a modern 3.5-generation dwaeji gukbap restaurant. Located on the second floor, the restaurant features a bar-style counter encircling an open kitchen, creating a dynamic dining experience. A unique touch awaits diners as they sit—a cup placed upside-down on a dish reveals a single vitamin tablet underneath.
The standout dish, dwaeji gomtang (pork bone soup), features rice immersed in a light, clear broth and topped with thin slices of Berkshire K black pork, sourced from the Jirisan Mountain region. A finishing drizzle of vibrant green chive oil adds both visual appeal and depth of flavor. The pork is tender, lightly smoked for a subtle aroma, and entirely free of the gaminess often associated with pork. The same premium pork is also served as suyuk, offered in both hot and cold variations, reminiscent of the boiled pork typically paired with Pyongyang naengmyeon. To further entice the MZ demographic, Jin Dwaeji Gomtang boasts a carefully curated selection of traditional Korean liquors, including Hansan Sogokju, Haechang Makgeolli, Leegangju, and Pungjeong Sagye, allowing diners to elevate their meals with premium drink pairings.
The influence of Okdongsik on Jin Dwaeji Gomtang is evident. Renowned for redefining dwaeji gukbap since its debut in Seoul’s Mapo-gu in 2017, Okdongsik has also earned significant acclaim in New York. However, opinions on its influence are divided. As one Seoul-based panelist observed, “The flavors are clean, modern, and minimalistic, but if I wanted this Seoul-style take on dwaeji gukbap, I wouldn’t travel all the way to Busan for what feels like an imitation.”
Another prominent contender is Hwanamjeong Dwaeji Gukbap, which features dwaeji gukbap topped with a lean cut of pork neck (jowl). To cater to younger diners who prefer less fatty textures, the restaurant trims over 50% of the fat from the meat. Owner Kim Young-bae explained, “While pork neck tastes better with some fat, we’ve adjusted for younger customers who are particularly sensitive to fatty meats by reducing the fat content as much as possible.”