It is fascinating to hear the stories of great artists associated with spontaneous creations. What may seem easy to draw at first glance often hides a deep mastery that makes such creations possible. There are moments in art when, breaking free from formality, the sense of creativity comes alive amidst chaos, where curves replace straight lines, and artistic intuition emerges from disorder. Art born from a sudden flash of inspiration tends to be more extraordinary and awe-inspiring.
A famous anecdote about the French Fauvist master Henri Matisse illustrates this concept well. When one of his sketches was completed quickly, a patron remarked that it seemed too easy. In response, Matisse is said to have reflected on the years of experience that made such effortless creation possible, implying that it took him 50 years to reach the level of skill that allowed him to draw so easily. This anecdote underscores the idea that the simpler something appears in art, the deeper the mastery and experience behind it.
Another intriguing story is about Salvador Dalí. He once drew a picture on the back of a check while paying at a high-end restaurant. While no one likely had the courage to cash the check, it’s easy to imagine the anguish and effort Dalí put into creating a masterpiece in that brief moment.
This artistic spirit connects with a particular place—‘Alla Prima,’ the Michelin 2-star restaurant led by Chef Kim Jin-hyuk. ‘Alla Prima’ means “at first attempt” or “at once” in Italian, and at this restaurant, the creative dishes born from Chef Kim’s years of culinary experience are served every day. The fusion of sudden inspiration and meticulous technique creates a unique gastronomic experience, which is the core strength of Alla Prima.
The menu itself reflects this creative approach. The dishes are difficult to categorize. It’s clearly Japanese, yet sometimes feels European, and at other times the opposite. But the exceptional flavors are enough to reveal the depth of the chef’s wide-ranging experience.
One example is the Carnaroli dish with Japanese tiger prawn, chestnuts, mushrooms, and truffles. The deep umami of mushrooms wraps around the tongue, while the chewy texture of prawn and Carnaroli rice adds a delightful bite. The delicate aroma of truffles and the rich flavor of mushroom yeast further intensify the deep flavor. Notably, the mushroom yeast, which has a cheese-like richness, subtly lingers on the finish, blending Eastern and Western elements.
Another noteworthy dish features abalone, gamtae (a type of seaweed), green yuzu, and red shiso. The tender, chewy abalone is complemented by the savory flavor of bacon in a smooth flan. The gamtae and clam broth sauce is rich in umami, while the green yuzu peel adds a refreshing zest. The shiso, brown butter, and extra virgin olive oil elevate the dish, and the minty scent of shiso lingers on the nose.
A dish with Spanish mackerel, dragon fruit, hazelnuts, and seaweed is also intriguing. Similar to a carpaccio or sashimi, the fluffy, tender spanish mackerel merges with seaweed, deepening the flavor of the sea. The tanginess of mustard and the sweetness of hazelnuts create a mysterious combination of flavors. It’s a taste that’s hard to explain, but the moment of contemplation adds to the joy. The dish, balanced by the refreshing dragon fruit, offers an exciting texture as the fruit bursts in the mouth.
Chef Kim hopes Alla Prima will be remembered as a place full of personality. He seeks to pioneer his unique genre, hoping his culinary sensibilities shine through in the spontaneous creations, much like the concept of the restaurant itself. The 10 or so dishes served in just over two hours may seem like fleeting moments, but the brilliance behind the flavors is the result of Chef Kim’s accumulated expertise.
―Can you briefly introduce yourself? What is Alla Prima like?
“I’m Chef Kim Jin-hyuk, the owner of Alla Prima. It’s been over 9 years since we opened this place. Honestly, it wasn’t launched with some grand plan or philosophy. At that time, I simply had a strong belief that I had to open the restaurant I envisioned. I also felt like I couldn’t miss that timing. We started in a small place across from where we are now.”
―What are the key features of Alla Prima?
“I don’t want to follow the trends. I want to walk my own path. For example, instead of following the trend of reinterpreting Korean cuisine, I want to cook what I feel like cooking. That’s why the proportion of Korean cuisine here is very low. I want to cook freely. I constantly change the menu, so there’s not really a signature dish. There might be ingredients I use often, though. (laughs)”
―What type of dishes do you serve at Alla Prima?
“I focus on ingredient-based cooking. The base is Western-style, but it’s not entirely Western. I use ingredients that are common in Japanese cuisine but rare in Korea, like sweetfish, hamo (conger eel), and okra. I’m confident that Alla Prima’s food will offer a new experience to diners. Personally, I believe that a good dish brings out the natural flavor of the ingredients. The chef’s intervention is minimal, and the flavor of the ingredients is maximized. Since the dishes don’t adhere to a specific genre, pairing with any wine or sake is possible. I’m also an ambassador for the world-renowned champagne brand Krug, so I have many rare bottles in stock.”
―Can you give an example?
“Take sweetfish, for example. It’s usually prepared differently in Korea, where the fish is boneless and often served in rice pots. But I think to truly enjoy sweetfish, you need to use the innards as well. The sweetfish feeds on certain aquatic plants that have a slightly bitter, spicy taste, so the innards have a similar flavor. The flesh is sweet, and when eaten with the innards, the bitterness and sweetness harmonize beautifully. You can also prepare it whole with a confit method, slowly cooking it in oil. I also like the Italian-style cold fruit soup, which pairs interestingly with deep-fried sweetfish.”
―How do you find inspiration?
“I get inspiration 24/7. Sometimes it comes from random flashes of insight. I often get ideas while listening to music, especially rock. I’m a fan of U2 and The Rolling Stones, and I usually play music loudly while preparing food. I believe the dishes I make reflect the emotional state I’m in when I listen to music.”
―What’s your favorite ingredient?
“Lately, I’ve been enjoying taro. I like its sticky texture. I tend to enjoy ingredients with similar textures, like okra or natto. Their stickiness makes them fun to pair with other ingredients, creating a satisfying ‘adhesion’ to the palate. I also love seasonal ingredients like freshly harvested produce or high-quality seafood.”
―You earned a Michelin 1-star just one year after opening, and now you have 2 stars. What are your thoughts on the Michelin stars?
“I personally think 1-star is the hardest to earn. It’s like a salmon swimming upstream, you have to pass through a big hurdle to get there. Moving from 0 to 1 is the hardest part. The more stars you earn, the better the restaurant gets. I haven’t received a 3-star yet, so I can’t speak to that, but from what I’ve observed, 3-star chefs seem to focus on dishes that cannot be altered anymore. The menu changes less compared to 1 or 2 stars. Honestly, I still feel like there’s a lot I can improve on. I want to take more risks and continue evolving.”
―If you were to compare your life to one dish, what would it be?
“A simple vegetable soup, made with just salt, water, and vegetables. I think I’ve been trying to eliminate unnecessary things in life lately. The food I create reflects this too. I don’t want to use extra ingredients just to make the dish taste more complex. I prefer dishes where the natural flavors of the ingredients shine through, with minimal intervention.”
―Where do you think you are in your culinary journey, and where do you want to go?
“I’d say I’m about 6 out of 10. There have definitely been challenges. During the COVID pandemic, my motivation dropped a lot. Before that, I felt like I was showing my potential, but the pandemic seemed to slow that down. In those moments of frustration, I found strength in my team members. There’s still so much I want to grow and achieve. I want to reach the final level in that last 4. I feel more confident now and have become more honest with myself.”
―How would you like to be remembered as a chef?
“As a chef with a unique technique. I don’t care about being number one overall, but I want people to recognize that I have my own unique genre. I’d like to be remembered for my distinct style, one that cannot be compared to anyone else. Personally, I admire Prince, the musician. He was incredibly versatile, handling dance, singing, and instruments with ease. His charisma on stage was impressive. But he was also an introverted person, which I admire. That unassuming, yet powerful presence radiating such energy is something I admire. I feel the same way. I think I’m an introvert in my personal life, but as a chef, I try to be different.”
―Is there a cuisine you would like to explore next?
“I’ve become more curious about Chinese cuisine after traveling to Hong Kong and Shanghai over the past year. One ingredient I love is fish swim bladders, which are dried and soaked in water in China. This process makes them chewier. I’d love to try cooking with them. I’m also interested in using ingredients like sea cucumbers and dried abalones. I’d love to make something like spring rolls filled with conger eel broth and meat, then deep-fry them. It’s a delicious dilemma!”
―Is there anything else you’d like to share?
“I want to live so that I have no regrets, even if I die tomorrow. Cooking brings me immense joy. There was a time when I worked so hard I thought I might die from exhaustion, but in that moment, I thought I wouldn’t mind going out like that. Cooking gives me the ultimate pleasure. But I don’t think I’m the best. I just try to make dishes that break the mold. I want people to come here for a new experience and to create happy memories.”
