Choi Hyun-seok, one of the most influential in South Korea's culinary scenes is posing for an interview with The Chosun Daily./Ko Woon-ho
Choi Hyun-seok, one of the most influential in South Korea's culinary scenes is posing for an interview with The Chosun Daily./Ko Woon-ho

‘Crazy’ and ‘Unique’ are words frequently used to describe Chef Choi Hyun-seok. These terms might seem intense, but few words can capture the vast culinary spectrum Choi offers.

His emergence in the once bland Korean dining scene was nothing short of revolutionary. From his tall stature and striking looks, one might expect traditional dishes, but the course he provides is surprise after surprise. He has worked at Elbon the Table and Tasty BLVD, and since 2017, he has been the owner-chef of Choi Dot (CHOI.).

Choi’s cuisine is so distinctive that it can be recognized not only by taste but also by appearance. Among Korea’s top chefs, he is perhaps the only one whose dishes can be identified from a single photo. Some even say his dishes can be easily recognizable like his “fingerprint.” This uniqueness likely stems from over 20 years of constantly experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create his own genre. The name “Choi Dot” symbolizes this, combining his surname “Choi” with a period, representing his ambition to create dishes so unique they need no further explanation.

Choi Hyun-seok’s dishes are not just about flavor. Typically, taste includes salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and spicy flavors. However, his cuisine adds an extra element: “fun.”

'Chef Ham', a reinterpretation of 'Spam', one of the common food in South Korea. /Choi Dot

The first reaction to his dishes is often a smile. The enjoyable experience begins even before tasting. The menu at Choi Dot is filled with imaginative combinations of words and ingredients. From transforming the folksy food ‘Spam’ into a luxury item to creating a dessert inspired by ‘Gundam’, a Japanese anime about giant robots, customers’ ‘happy anticipation’ begins with the menu itself. “What could it possibly taste like?”

This season’s menu at Choi Dot is no exception. In fact, it’s even bolder. The main course features frog meat. After a 45-day preparation period, the decision to serve frog cuisine met strong opposition from his family and staff. However, he remained steadfast, believing that if delicious ingredients are cooked well, customers will enjoy them. The dish is named ‘Please’, reflecting his hope that customers will ‘please’ give it a try, as it has been meticulously prepared. Only Choi could make such a bold move.

As passionate as he is about new menus, he is equally thoughtful about the future of Korean fine dining. Although Korean fine dining has made remarkable progress over the past 20 years, he believes it’s time for further growth. He considers diversity to be the most crucial factor for the development of any culture, including cuisine. Thus, he confidently faces critics of his food, knowing that the more diverse the palette, the more each color can shine.

'Handsome', a dessert inspired by ‘Gundam’, a Japanese anime. /Choi Dot

Can you explain what Choi Dot is?

“Choi Dot is my own restaurant, which has been open for seven years now. I wanted to create a restaurant that strongly reflected my unique style in a new space. The name of the restaurant embodies this intent—Choi (Hyun-seok) and a period. It means, ‘I won’t say much. This is my cuisine.’ It also signifies that the experience should be intuitively enjoyable without any need for explanation.”

What inspired you to create Choi Dot?

“I believe that for every culture to develop, there needs to be diversity. However, I think the Korean dining culture, especially in the fine dining sector, lacks this diversity. Many people associate fine dining with a refined, luxurious, and somewhat heavy atmosphere. While some places may emphasize these aspects, not all fine dining should be about formality and a heavy mood. Some fine dining establishments should offer a more relaxed and enjoyable experience. I wanted to bring that diversity to the scene. At Choi Dot, we aim for an atmosphere where people can laugh and chat happily. That’s why we also paid attention to the pricing during the recent renewal. Some industry colleagues suggested we charge more, but I believe one reason people find fine dining intimidating is the high cost. I wanted to lower that barrier.”

What do you mean by cultural diversity?

“Let me explain with a movie analogy. There are various genres in movies—romance, drama, thriller, comedy. There are films with heavy, philosophical content, and there are light, entertaining films. This variety attracts more people to the movies. I believe the same should apply to the Korean dining scene. Culture gains strength from diversity. I hope people see my attempts at new dishes as a contribution to this diversity.”

Choi Hyun-seok, one of the most influential in South Korea's culinary scenes is posing for an interview with The Chosun Daily. /Ko Woon-ho

What do you see as the issues in the Korean dining industry?

“This is just my personal opinion, but I feel there’s a bit of uniformity in the high-end dining scene. Many restaurants seem to use similar ingredients and storytelling, which can be disappointing. While there are many world-class chefs in the fine dining industry, I believe the Korean dining scene can advance further by showcasing more diverse and distinctive dishes. With the economic downturn, many customers are avoiding fine dining. To bring them back, we need to reflect on our approach. Just as people get tired of only watching blockbusters, the dining scene needs a variety of genres, like comedy and thriller, to keep things interesting.”

You are known for presenting creative dishes.

“Maintaining the mindset of always creating new dishes has been crucial. In the past, I introduced new menus every season. Looking back, it was a crazy endeavor. Although it’s embarrassing to admit, many past dishes were unique but lacked harmony in flavor. Through trial and error, I believe I can now create better dishes.”

Are there other aspects you prioritize in your cooking?

“Of course, the taste must be excellent. However, at Choi Dot, we also value ‘connection’ with the customers. My cuisine uses humor to create that connection. By reinterpreting familiar Korean foods in new ways, we aim to bring smiles to our customers’ faces. For example, one of our past dishes was ‘Choi’s Bar,’ inspired by the popular Korean ice cream ‘Jaws Bar.’ It looked like a popsicle but tasted like salmon sushi. Imagine coming to a fine dining restaurant and licking an ice bar. Wouldn’t that make you smile? It breaks the formality and brings out a natural smile.”

A main dish served at Choi Dot. /Choi Dot

What is your culinary philosophy?

“Lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about diversity. Every player in the Korean dining industry is important. I am not more important than others, nor are they more important than me. Chefs like me allow other chefs to shine, and vice versa. Unique places like Choi Dot enhance the appeal of other fine dining restaurants. I aspire to be a chef who can express individuality within this diversity.”

What changes have been made at Choi Dot after the 45-day renovation?

“For lunch, we’ve reinterpreted Italian cuisine more elegantly. For the dinner course, we’ve added more humorous elements to make the experience more enjoyable for guests. However, we haven’t compromised on taste. In fact, I had to make a dish over 130 times to nail it. Simply put, we’ve developed Choi Hyun-seok’s cuisine to be the most ‘Choi Hyun-seok-like.’”

I heard that frog is part of the course menu.

“Yes, that’s correct. I tasted frog in Singapore in the past and found it delicious. Frog tastes good and has a texture similar to chicken but with more collagen, making it more luxurious. I wanted to cook it. Initially, my staff thought it was too risky, and my daughters were strongly opposed. But their opposition only fueled my desire to try it. I reflected on a chef’s role—to offer customers new culinary experiences with unfamiliar ingredients. Despite many objections, I decided to include it on the menu. Additionally, the types of meat consumed in the Korean dining industry today are quite limited to beef, pork, and chicken. However, 30-40 years ago, people enjoyed a variety of meats like rabbit and frog.”

Chot Dot's new menu 'Please', a cuisine made from frog meat. /Choi Dot

How have customers reacted?

“The response has been better than expected. Of course, we explain at the beginning that they can choose another dish if the frog meat is difficult for them. But I ask them to try it at least once because it’s delicious. Hence, the dish is named ‘Please’. When the chef comes out and pleads with the customers to try it, everyone ends up smiling. This aligns with Choi Dot’s philosophy of ‘enjoyable fine dining.’”

What is Choi Dot’s goal?

“I want it to be a ‘good place’ where people have a great time. I hope more people can enjoy fine dining in a friendly and approachable manner. I want to lower the barriers of fine dining. Additionally, I hope people become curious not just about Choi Dot but about other fine dining establishments as well. I don’t have grand ambitions like ‘Choi Hyun-seok and Choi Dot will make a mark in Korean culinary history.’ I simply want to be remembered as a ‘good place’ that brings joy to people within this diverse genre.”