
He once wore his chef’s coat with pride, but now he’s chosen a new path. His name is Song Hoon, a chef who once stood as a symbol of Korean fine dining. These days, however, he’s captivated by the charm of Korea’s native pork breed, “Nanchukmatdon”. It’s no surprise that people now call him a CEO rather than a chef—a title that feels increasingly natural for him.
Looking back, his culinary career was a series of brilliant highlights. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), one of the world’s top three culinary schools. He then honed his craft at New York’s famed restaurants Gramercy Tavern and Maialino, eventually becoming a sous-chef at Eleven Madison Park, consistently ranked among the world’s best restaurants. These accomplishments alone were enough to make him the envy of chefs worldwide.
But what led him to leave this illustrious career behind? It was the unforgettable taste of Nanchukmatdon. Developed by the Nanji Livestock Research Institute, its name translates to “delicious pig” and was created by crossbreeding Jeju’s indigenous black pigs with Landrace pigs. Compared to regular pork, Nanchukmatdon boasts over four times the marbling, offering a rich, nutty flavor. As Korea’s only native purebred pig, it holds significant cultural value—something Song Hoon found deeply moving. This realization inspired him to open “Crown Pig”, a Nanchukmatdon specialty restaurant in Sinsa-dong, Seoul.
Song believes Nanchukmatdon has the potential to compete on a global stage, rivaling famous pork breeds like Iberico and Berkshire. Its advantages are clear. Beyond the high marbling, it’s rich in unsaturated fats, making it a healthier choice, and its high moisture content gives it an unparalleled tenderness. Simply put, it’s a pork that combines health and flavor. It’s little wonder that Song always smiles while serving this pork; after all, nothing brings a chef greater joy than sharing delicious food.
Nanchukmatdon is celebrated for its nutty richness and juicy tenderness, with each cut offering unique flavors and textures. At Crown Pig, Song has taken this to the next level by developing innovative menu items, including the “Don-Mahawk” (a pork version of the Tomahawk steak) and the “T-Don Steak” (a pork version of the T-bone steak). The word don (豚) is derived from the Korean and Chinese characters for “pig,” emphasizing the focus on premium pork cuts in these dishes.
The Don-Mahawk, inspired by the tomahawk steak, features a combination of pork loin, jowl, and rib cuts, all fused into one. Slicing through this perfectly grilled cut reveals the diverse textures of each part: the firm bite of the loin, the tenderness of the jowl, and the chewiness of the rib meat. The marbled fat melts into each bite, creating a symphony of flavors and a unique blend of crunchiness and softness.
The T-Don Steak, similar to a T-bone steak, combines tenderloin and loin cuts. Its thick, juicy meat is interwoven with fine layers of fat. Song recommends enjoying this dish during winter when the fat’s flavor is at its peak, enhancing the natural umami. Unlike the often-dry texture of traditional pork loin, Nanchukmatdon’s high moisture content keeps it succulent and tender.
And what’s a pork feast without fried rice to finish? Crown Pig offers a signature fried rice infused with Jeju flavors. The star ingredient is salted fish sauce made from Jeju’s hairtail fish, which Song ferments in-house. The sauce is stir-fried with minced Nanchukmatdon hind leg meat for added richness. Even the kimchi undergoes a meticulous process, slow-cooked for an hour to concentrate its flavors while preserving a satisfying crunch.
Despite its bold red color, the fried rice is surprisingly mellow at first bite, gradually releasing the delicate aroma of cutlassfish as you chew. The flavor pairs perfectly with pork, mimicking the sensation of dipping meat into lightly spiced fermented sauce. A soft-boiled egg yolk ties all the elements together, adding creaminess to the mix. It’s only after finishing the last spoonful that you feel the true satisfaction of the meal.
Song sees his journey as just beginning. His ultimate goal is to introduce Nanchukmatdon to the world, elevating Korea’s native pork to a global level. As he steps into the role of a culinary “national player” for Korea, his ambitions are heavy but deeply meaningful.
― Please introduce yourself briefly.
”I’m Song Hoon, the CEO of Crown Pig. I graduated from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and worked as a chef at Eleven Madison Park, among other notable restaurants. I also appeared as a judge on MasterChef Korea Season 4. Currently, I run Crown Pig in Sinsa-dong, Seoul, and Aewol, Jeju, under my company, Song Hoon Park.”
― What is Crown Pig?
“I didn’t open Crown Pig with some grand philosophy in mind. I just see it as the only place continuing the legacy of Korea’s native pork breed. Many people still don’t know about Nanchukmatdon, but I truly believe that, with time, its value will shine through. I have faith in time—and in its taste.”
― What is Nanchukmatdon?
”If I were to define it in one phrase, I’d say it’s Korea’s own native pork. Just as Spain has Iberico pork, Korea has Nanchukmatdon. And it’s every bit as good. In fact, I believe it has the potential to be loved even more. To spread the word about this incredible pork, I opened a venue called Song Hoon Park named after myself.”
― Can you describe its taste?
”It’s rich and nutty yet clean and light. Pork can often feel overly greasy, but Nanchukmatdon is different. It’s high in unsaturated fats, and its marbling gives it a unique nuttiness. Its moisture content also makes it incredibly juicy. I often tell customers, ‘Even if you only have four teeth, you can still enjoy this pork.’ Words can’t fully capture it—you need to taste it to understand. (laughs)”
― What are Crown Pig’s signature dishes?”
Our signature items include the T-Don Steak, Don-Mahawk, and Jjoldae-gi Meat. The T-Don Steak is named after the T-bone steak, as it offers both the tenderloin and loin in one cut. It’s especially flavorful in winter when the meat is plumper and the fat more savory.
The Don-Mahawk combines loin, jowl, and rib cuts, with its unique marbling delivering an unparalleled texture. Instead of serving these cuts separately, we slice them into one cohesive piece, allowing diners to experience a symphony of flavors and textures in a single bite.
Lastly, Jjoldae-gi Meat comes from the shoulder’s flat iron steak cut, with a mix of 80% lean meat and 20% fat. It’s somewhat similar to neck meat but has a richer flavor profile.”
― How do the Seoul and Jeju locations of Crown Pig differ?”
One of the key things I’ve learned from my years in fine dining is that every dish needs a story. One way to tell that story is to reflect the unique characteristics of each location. For example, in Jeju, it’s easier to source ingredients like canola blossoms and wild chives, so we incorporate them into our side dishes. Each location is tailored to highlight the charm of its surroundings.”
― Do you have any tips for enjoying pork even more?
”For the first bite, I always recommend a simple dip in salt. It allows you to fully appreciate the pork’s natural aroma and texture. After that, I suggest trying it with yuzu ponzu sauce and wasabi. The citrus notes from the yuzu balance out any greasiness. Crown Pig also offers fermented hairtail fish sauce and pickled vegetables, which make excellent accompaniments.”
― You must have faced a lot of challenges when leaving the fine dining industry.
”When I first announced I was opening Crown Pig, many people tried to dissuade me. Some even criticized me, saying I was sacrificing my pride to make money. Yes, I want to make a living, but I also wanted to do something meaningful. Preserving and promoting Korea’s native pork breeds felt like a calling.
I first tasted Nanchukmatdon by chance, and it was so delicious. When I learned it was a Korean breed, I was even more amazed. I felt a responsibility to protect and promote this incredible pork.”
― Do you have any lingering attachment to fine dining?
”My ultimate goal is to open a variety of restaurants under my name. But opening a fine dining establishment would make it more difficult to pursue a variety of projects. Earning Michelin stars is undoubtedly an honorable achievement, but I often ask myself—what’s next after one, two, or even three stars? Fine dining alone isn’t the only path for me.”
― What progress have you made so far?
”It’s not something to boast about, but we’ve achieved meaningful results. In less than 10 years, the number of farms raising Nanchukmatdon has grown from one to eight. It takes about one to two years to produce a batch, and by next year, we expect around four farms to begin shipping.
We’re also building a scalable production system. The T-Don Steak and Don-Mahawk, for instance, are already trademarked. But I don’t mind if others use the names—I’m just happy if it helps spread awareness.”
― Besides pork, are there other aspects of Korean food culture you’re interested in?
”I used to focus on sundae (Korean blood sausage), but making it more mainstream has proven to be a tough challenge. Lately, I’ve been thinking about Korea’s barbecue culture. From chicken ribs to dishes like mul-galbi (soupy short ribs), Korea has a rich barbecue tradition that I believe could resonate globally.”
― How do you want to be remembered?”
I want to be remembered as someone who is always growing. I aim to achieve success not just in Korea but also abroad. I’m committed to introducing Korea’s flavors to the world, particularly in places like the U.S. Ultimately, I hope to be seen as a ‘national representative,’ spreading Korean culinary culture to every corner of the globe.”