One of nature’s most mysterious gifts is the pine mushroom. Hidden deep in the foothills, the mushroom reveals itself through its distinctive fragrance, shining brightest in the autumn. Autumn pine mushrooms, with their blend of earthy and piney aromas, provide an unparalleled culinary experience. Yet, achieving the status of a premium pine mushroom is no simple feat. The cap must not spread too wide, and the stalk must grow straight. While these differences might seem trivial to the untrained eye, they are what define the true value of a first-grade pine mushroom.
A chef who embodies the spirit of these mushrooms is Korea’s 16th Master Chef, Ahn Yu-seong. His journey to earning the prestigious Master Chef title mirrors the growth of a pine mushroom. Being named a Master Chef requires more than culinary skill. It demands social contributions, integrity, and expertise, along with passing a rigorous evaluation. Perhaps this is why the title carries a unique dignity, much like the subtle yet profound presence of the pine mushroom.
Even during last year’s tragic Muan airport disaster, Chef Ahn distinguished himself. To comfort grieving families, he prepared abalone porridge and packed meals. He didn’t act for recognition and was even modest when his efforts came to light. Yet his actions sparked a ripple effect, inspiring chefs and artisans across the country to join the cause. Sometimes, the power of a good meal lies far beyond its taste.
Chef Ahn’s restaurant, “Gamae”, is equally remarkable. It combines the rich bounty of Korea’s southern region with Japanese cuisine, creating dishes that feel both distinctly Korean and authentically Japanese. Like the warm hospitality of Jeolla-do (province), the menu offers an abundance of options. From mackerel and sea squirts to conger eel, lobster, and tuna, the well-prepared courses are visually stunning and deeply satisfying. The combination of southern Korean generosity and the refined aesthetics of Japanese cuisine is a delight in itself.
One standout is Gamae’s Hirame (flounder) sushi, known for its chewy yet tender texture. Chef Ahn’s specially crafted soy sauce adds a sweet and salty balance that pairs perfectly with the mild flavor of the flounder. It also complements the tangy shari (sushi rice). Another highlight is the grilled mackerel served with crispy seaweed, seasoned soy sauce, and a touch of Korean flavor. The suimono (clear soup) made with Neungee Mushroom (Sarcodon aspratus), clams, and radish is another must-try. The earthy aroma of the mushrooms blends harmoniously with the freshness of the clams and the mellow sweetness of the slow-simmered radish.
Beyond his culinary pursuits, Chef Ahn is passionate about nurturing future generations. Just as mushrooms scatter spores to enrich their surroundings, Chef Ahn dedicates himself to mentoring young chefs. He dreams of establishing a culinary school that aligns with Korea’s evolving gastronomic culture. Additionally, he envisions creating a “Street of Masters,” centered around Gamae, where restaurants led by culinary artisans could gather.
The path he has walked leaves a lasting impression, much like the gentle and lingering scent of the pine mushroom.
― Could you briefly introduce yourself?
“I am Ahn Yu-seong, South Korea’s 16th Master Chef. I am currently the president of the Bada (Sea) Chef Association and the Gwangju-Jeonnam branch of the Korean Chefs Association. I earned my Master Chef certification on September 1, 2023. I also operate several establishments, including Gamae, Gwangjuok, Jangsu Naju Gomtang, and more.”
― What kind of restaurant is Gamae?
“Gamae is a Japanese restaurant in Gwangju that has hosted all S. Korean presidents, from the late Kim Dae-jung to Roh Moo-hyun, Moon Jae-in, Park Geun-hye, and Yoon Suk-yeol. While it primarily follows traditional Japanese cuisine, we incorporate ingredients from the southern region of Korea to create a unique Gamae flavor. Our menu showcases the abundance of Jeolla-do, including mackerel, ark clams, wild pine mushrooms, and octopus.”
― What inspired you to start cooking?
”My family owned a restaurant, so I grew up around food. My mother’s fermented fish business also had a huge influence on me. I learned to identify quality ingredients by accompanying her to markets and saw firsthand the power of good ingredients. Running errands at the market taught me a lot, even if it meant getting scolded at times.”
― How did you come to specialize in Japanese cuisine?
”I’ve always loved deep-sea fishing, and my dream was to become a tuna fishing captain. But in the early 1990s, I was captivated by the sight of sushi being made, and I impulsively moved to Seoul to pursue it. I started at a small sashimi restaurant in Oryu-dong and later moved to a bigger Japanese restaurant called Dado. I also trained under renowned chefs like Kim Young-joo from the Shilla Hotel and Kim Jin-hong from the Chosun Hotel. Chef Kim Young-joo broadened my horizons by sending me to Japan for training, which left a lasting impression. Inspired by that experience, I now send my best students to Japan for training. I prefer teaching my students how to fish rather than just giving them fish.”
― What does it take to become a Master Chef?
”To become a Master Chef, you must first obtain certifications in Korean, Chinese, and Japanese cuisine. Then, you need to pass the Master Craftsman exam and have 15–20 years of experience in the field. Afterward, you must be recognized as an outstanding skilled technician. There are other requirements, like volunteering scores and submitting research papers. The application itself is as thick as a book. The exam is only held once a year, and in the program’s 37-year history, there have been only 17 Master Chefs in total. I failed seven times before succeeding, so it was truly a case of perseverance paying off.”
― That must have been discouraging. How did you keep going?
”The whole process of pursuing the Master Chef title was nerve-wracking. Every time I failed, I thought about giving up. But for some reason, I kept preparing my documents. As I worked on improving my shortcomings with each failure, I eventually realized I had grown wings—wings that allowed me to try again and rise higher. Over time, I put more heart into everything, including volunteering. It wasn’t about earning points anymore; it became about genuinely helping others. I believe food should soothe people’s weary hearts, not just fill their stomachs.”
― What makes sushi so special to you?
”Sushi is something you can eat every day without getting tired of it. While raw fish can sometimes feel heavy, sushi never does. There’s also an incredible amount of skill and precision that goes into creating even a single piece. The idea of crafting perfection in just one bite is fascinating.”
― What makes Gamae’s sushi unique?
”We source rice locally, selecting varieties based on the season and climate. For instance, Haenam rice has small, firm grains that work well for sushi. We also use homemade kelp-fermented vinegar to season the rice.”
― What are your goals after becoming a Master Chef?
”I’ve gradually acquired about 1,500 pyeong (around 4,960 square meters) of land, including Gwangjuok, Gamae, and Naju Gomtang. I hope to use this space to create a ‘Street of Masters.’ I’ve even discussed the idea with other Master Chefs, such as Ma Ok-chun, the head of Veviers Bakery, who has expressed interest in participating. My goal is to turn this into a landmark in Gwangju. Additionally, I want to establish a culinary school for young chefs. Like the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) or Le Cordon Bleu in France, I envision a school in Korea where students can learn both cooking and restaurant management.”
― With so many famous guests, do you have any memorable stories?
”Saxophonist Kenny G once visited Gamae. He typically eats just two meals a day, but after having sushi here for lunch, he came back for dinner. His manager said Kenny G enjoyed it immensely. The late President Kim Dae-jung also loved our sushi. After eating, he would often nap for about 30 minutes. Once, the Blue House suddenly called, and I rushed there, worried something had gone wrong. It turned out he simply wanted two orders of sushi to go. As a chef, that was the highest compliment.”
― What sushi dishes have you created using Jeolla Province ingredients?
”We’ve made sushi with bamboo shoots from Damyang and wild pine mushrooms from Namwon. Jeollanam-do is also the only place in Korea where you can eat freshly slaughtered beef, which we use for sushi. Other dishes include sushi made with 4-kilogram flounders from Wando, fresh skate, and more. At Gamae, you can experience a wide array of Jeolla-inspired dishes. I recommend our Jeolla sushi course, which combines sushi with traditional southern Korean cuisine.”
― If you were to compare your life to a dish, what would it be?
”Dobin mushi. It’s similar to China’s Buddha Jumps Over the Wall soup. It’s made by simmering various ingredients like wild pine mushrooms, chicken, ginkgo nuts, and shrimp in a teapot. The gentle aroma that wafts out keeps drawing you in. It’s a dish that leaves a lingering impression, much like I hope my life does.”
― Any words for those who visit Gamae?
”I’ve met countless customers through the ups and downs of life. Some came as children and returned as adults with their own children. Others brought their grandchildren. I want Gamae to be a place where relationships last. I’m always grateful and hope to continue building meaningful connections with our guests.”
